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/#This Book 

Contains Upwards 
of 1500 Fancy Work 
Designs — 

Price 10 Cents 



WHY IT WAS PUBLISHED 

For many years The Modern Priscilla {the leading 
fancij-ivork magazine of America) has given its readers each 
month a large number of rarely beautiful original designs for 
every use that Art Needlework can be put to. Also Priscilla 
has given to the world during past years an endless variety of 
designs for that easy, fascinating and most effective work — 
Steneiling. 

Until recently, however, these designs were available 
only for those who possessed copies of the magazines in which 
they were originally published. But so great was the demand 
for a catalogue, that the editors of The Modern Priscilla 
were finally persuaded to make a careful compilation of all 
designs that the test of time had proved to be of exceptional 
merit, and thus it was that The Prisrilla FancU'Win-k Cata- 
logue came into existence. 

WHAT IT CONTAINS 

In this book will be found upwards of 1500 designs. 
Ever>' kind of embroidery used by modern neodleworkers is 
represented, and whether it be simple work that you desire, 
or elaborate and complex, somewhere on these pages you 
will find exactly the thing you are looking for. 

HOLIDAY NOVELTIES 

There are desii^ns for Holiday Novelties, suitable for gifts 
for all occasions, such as Glove. Tie and Handkerchief Cases 

— Powder, Soap, Sponge and Jewelry Bags and Cases — Veil. 
Stamp and Comb and Brush Cases — Whisk Broom Holders, 
Shaving Pads, Penwipers, and Pincushions of all shapes and 
sizes — Pin Books and Pin Balls — Needlebooks and Calendars 

— Post Card. Darning Cotton and Teapot Holders— Book 
Racks, Note Books, and Magazine Covers — Sewing Cases. 
Suspended, Work Bags, Opera Bags, Sachet Bags and Collar 
Bags — Candle Shades, Photograph Frames, Napkin Rings 
and Napkin Holders. 



DRESSGARNITURE AND HOUSEHOLD LINENS 

In another section will be found a beautiful assortment of 
Stocks. Dutch Collars and Jabots, and following it, a showing 
of Fancy Aprons in a wide variety of shapes and styles. 
Further along some Embroidered Belts, with 20 designs to 
choose from, and 45 exquisite designs for Embroidered Hose. 
Then follow dozens of designs for Towel Ends, scores of de- 
signs for Centrepieces. Doilies and Lunch Cloths, still more 
designs for Bureau, Sideboard, Table and Piano Scarfs, an/1 
pages of designs for Pillow Covers. 

LINGERIE AND BABY CLOTHES 

Still other pages show Insertion and Edging designs, de- 
signs for Nightgowns. Corset Covers, Combinations, Shirt 
Waists and Costumes, designs for Babies' One-piece Nightin- 
gales, Baby Bonnets, Yokes and Little Dresses, Bibs, Shoes, 
Hats and Collars. 

A BIG STENCILING SECTION 

In the section devoted to Stenciling will be found instruc- 
tions for mixing and applying colors, and over 200 different 
designs that may be used for every conceivable kind of deco- 
ration to which stenciling is applicable. 

m; aterials and accessories 

* •■ » Finally, ten different styles of letters for marking house- 
' hold linens are shown, and all sorts of embroidery materials 
and accessories are pictured and listed. 

THE PRICE A NOMINAL ONE 

This book might easily be worth ten times its small cost 
to any woman interested in Needlework, but it is not the 
desire of the publishers to make money on the sale of the 
book, only to cover the cost of production and distribution. 
Therefore, it is offered to all who desire it, at the nominal 
price of 10 cents per copy, postpaid. 



FREE 



The section of the above catalogue devoted to all kinds of embroidery ma- 
terials and accessories, a mine of useful information for needleworkers, w'ill 
be sent on request, free of charge, to any address. 



The Priscilla Publishing Co., 85 Broad St., Boston, Mass. 



Mool Crochet J?oofe 

A SELECTION OF USEFUL ARTICLES FROM 
THE MODERN PRISCILLA 

WITH 

SEVERAL NEW DESIGNS 

NEVER BEFORE PUBLISHED 

EDITED BY 

LOLA BURKS HETTICH 
1908 

REVISED 19 12 



PUBLISHED BY 
85 BROAD STREET. BOSTON. MASS. 



Copyright, 1912, by The Priscilla Publishing Company 

Trade Mark Reg. U. S. Patent Office 

Entered at Stationers' Hall. London 

All rights reserved 



CONTENTS 



Articles for Women 



Star Stitch 3 

Knot Stitch 4 

Staple Work 4 

Square Shawl 4 

Ladies' Petticoat 5 

Neck Protector 6 

Rainbow Scarf 6 

Ladies' Hood in Staple Work 7 

Cotton Skirt 8 

Evening Cape 9 

Ladies' Mittens 9 

Nightingale 10 

Knee Cap 10 

Ripple Shawl 11 

Auto Scarf 12 



Ladies' Slippers 12 

Auto Priscilla Hood 13 

Ladies' Jacket 14 

Ladies' Cape 16 

Shawl 17 

Shawl in Staple Crochet and Knot Stitch 18 

Ladies' Shawl 18 

Slumber Slippers 19 

Fascinator 20 

Fascinator in Staple Work 20 

Circular Shawl 21 

Silk Slippers 22 

Scarf 23 

Golf Vest 24 

Kimono 24 



Articles for Babies and Children 



Brownie Hood 26 

Carriage Afghan 2j 

Bib 27 

Infant's Band 28 

Bootees 28 

Bonnet 29 

Cap 29 

Cap 30 

Cap 31 

Hood 32 

Shawl T^z 

Bootees 33 

Petticoat 2,}, 

Bed Socks 34 

Socks 34 

Socks 35 

Bath Robe ^d 

Nightingale n 



Mittens 38 

Mittens 38 

^a^k 39 

Bootees 39 

Bali 39 

Cloak 40 

SUppers 40 

HQt)d 41 

Napoleon Hat 41 

Napoleon Cap 42 

Cap 43 

Bib 43 

Carriage Afghan 44 



Sack 
Sack 
Sack 
Sack 
Sack 



44 

45 
46 

47 
48 



CCl.A3'<Jt)134 



I Articles for Women | 



Explanation of Stitches 



Chain Stitch (ch st). Make a series of loops, drawing eacli 

loop through the preceding one. 
Slip Stitch (si st). Insert the hook into the stitch, draw the 

wool through that stitch and through the wool on hook at 

the same time. 
Single Crochet (s c). Insert the hook, draw wool through, 

pass wool around hook (wool over), and draw it through 

both loops on the hook. 
Double Crochet (d c). Pass the wool around the hook, insert 

the hook, draw wool through: pass the wool around the 

hook, and draw the wool through 2 loops, wool over, and 

again through 2 loops. 

Star Stitch 

Star stitch, when correctly made, is one of the best 
and prettiest stitches in crocheting, being suitable for 
almost every article crocheted of silk or wool where 
a close stitch is wanted. It is one of the simplest 
stitches in crochet and yet one of the hardest to 
give directions for, as no two persons will make it 
alike, and a little difference in the working of the 




Star Stitch 



stars may necessitate the putting in or leaving out 
of a number of extra stars in a row. The great- 
est difference is made in taking the stitches off the 
hook, some pulling the stitches one way and some 
another. It is advisable for any one working 
Stat stitch for the first time to work a sample 
strip of single zephyr Crochet a ch of 24 sts 
Without throwing over the wool, skip the st 
next to the hook and draw the wool through the 2d. 
keeping both sts on the hook Take up tlie 3d. 4th. 
and 5th sts the same wav, making 5 sts on the 
hook These sts must be quite loose and must 
be the same length Throw over the wool and 
take off all 5 sts together and finish the star 
with I ch to hold it together. Now put the hook 
in the ist st of the star going down the side, it 



Half Double Crochet (h d c). Pass the wool around the hook, 
insert the hook, draw wool through; pass the wool around 
the hook, and draw the wool through all 3 loops at once. 

Long Crochet (1 c). Pass the wool around the hook, insert, 
draw wool through; pass the wool around the hook, and 
draw it through 1 loop, wool over, then through 2, wool 
over, then again through 2. 

Treble Crochet (t c or tr c). Pass the wool around the hook 
twice, insert the hook, draw the wool through; pass the 
' und the hook, draw through 2 loops. 



again through 2 loops, 



the 



again through 



being a short st and called the eye of the star, 
draw the wool through, then through back thread 
of the next st of the star, it being a long st; then 
take up the next 2 sts of the ch, making 5 sts as 
before; draw the wool through all at once and work 
the I ch to finish the star. Repeat until you have 
ten stars. Crochet an e.xtra chain stitch and clip 
the wool. 2d row — Draw the wool through ch st 
at beginning of ist star, tie once. Chain 3, skip 
1st and take up 2d and 3d. Now notice there is a 
long and short st in the top of every star of the 
1st row. Take up the back thread of the long st 
and both threads of the short st There will now 
be 5 sts on the hook. Proceed as before, working 
a star over every star of the preceding row. Work 
four or five rows in this way Now notice if your 
work at the ends is perfectly straight. If it slopes 
at the end where the wool is clipped off, you will 
have to work an e.xtra star to keep it even, until 
you have learned how to take your sts off the hook 
properly Don't forget this. It is generally caused 
by keeping the 1st st tight upon the hook when it 
should be loosest of all There are two ways to 
widen star stitch. First IVay. — Four sts only are 
taken up. the short and long one down the side of 
the preceding star and the fourth one in the short 
st into which was put the last st of the preceding 
star. Sometimes two extra stars are put in this 
same stitch, and the term used is wi 2. Scco)id 
Way. — Take up the short and long st down the 
side of preceding star and the long st of star under- 
neath, making 4 sts Take off as before, making 
one star Now take up short and long st down side 
and short st of star underneath This makes two 
stars over one of preceding row, and the term 
used is wi by 2 over i. 

To Work St./^r Stitch in Circle. — Chain 4 on 
which work i star ot 4 sts. Proceed as for widen- 
ing Stat stitch, working 7 stars ot 4 sts each the 
4th st of all 7 stars being taken in same ch as the 4th 
ot 1st star. Join last star by si st to ist. 




Wav of Working Star Stitch in Circle 

2d rots.'. — Work i star of 5 sts over ist star of 
1st row, wi I star. Repeat around circle. 

In the 3(f ctnc widen every 2 stars and so on as 
directed. 



Knot Stitch 

Work the foundation chain as called for in the 
directions for garment. Draw a loop out to about 
one-half inch, draw thread through, thus forming 
a long chain stitch, insert the hook in this long 
chain, separating the loop first drawn out, from the 
strand formed when thread was drawn through, and 
work a s c, draw out another loop same length, draw 




Knot Stitch 

thread through, s c as before, skipping the required 
number of stitches in foundation, s c in next. 
This is a group of knot stitch; some crocheters 
refer to it as knot stitch, and others to knot stitch 
as just half tlie group. Repeat as many times as 
directed. At end of row, work one group and a 



half, turn, and s c on each side of the s c at centre, 
or catch by s c into top of same, as some directions 
call for. 



Staple Work 

Also called Hairi-ix Work and .Maltese Crochet 

Either buy or have made of good stiff wire, a 
staple 6 inches long and the desired width between 
prongs, a one and one-half inch staple being the 
most desirable. Tie wool around open end and let 
the finished work slip toward closed end of staple. 
When the staple is full slip the work off and roll 
up, tying it to staple to keep it from twisting, first 
slipping back on the staple the last two loops on 
both sides. 

Holding the staple so there 
is a right and left prong, insert 
the crochet-hook under the loop 
on left prong and draw wool 
through cli, which commences 
the work. Slipping the hook 
over the right prong, turn the 
staple over toward you, wrap- 
ping wool around the left prong 
as you do so. This will make 
the left prong now the right 
one. The crochet-hook must al- 
ways be inserted under the wool 
on the left prong from the side 
toward you. Draw the wool 
through as above, which gives 
you two loops on the hook. 
Take off as in single crochet. 

In the old way of working toward the closed 
end of staple, the hook had to be taken out each 
time the staple was turned and inserted again. 
In working toward the open end it is just slipped 
over and is ready when the staple is turned. If a 
heavier centre is desired insert the hook under the 
left prong twice, making two single crochets. 




Staple Work 



Square Shawl 



Chain eight stitches and join in ring. 

1st row — Chain 5, work I s c in 2d ch, ch 5, I s C 
in 4th ch, ch 5, i s c in 6th ch, ch 5, I s c in 8th. 

2d roiv — Chain 5, i s c in 1st of 5 ch just made, 
ch 5. I s c in 1st group of previous row, ch 5, I s c 
in 1st of 5 ch just made, ch 3, i s c in next group of 
1st row, ch 5, I s c in 1st of 5 ch just made, ch 5, 
I s c in next group of ist row, ch 5, I s c in ist of 
5 ch just made, ch 5, s c in last group. This forms 
the corners. 



3d rou — Chain 5, l s c in 3d ch of 5 which forms 
corner, ch 5. i s c in ist of 5 ch just made, ch 5, i 
s c in 1st group of 2d row, ch 5, i s c in 3d of 5 ch 
at corner, ch 5, s c in ist of ch just made, ch 5, i 




Begin the front gore with 42 ch, turn, and, be- 
ginning in the 3d st from the hook, work a half- 
double crochet ( h d c) in each chain stitch. For 
the 2d row, ch 2, work a h d c in base of the 2 ch, 
then in every h d c of the 1st row. 
The following rows are worked the 
same as the 2d row — the st in the 
base of the 2 ch making the widen- 
ing in each row. Skirt is 94 rows 
deep. 

For the side gore begin with 38 
ch and proceed as in the front gore 
except at the side which joins the 
front. This side is kept straight by 
omitting the st in the base of the 2 
ch. Work the same number of rows 
as in the front, then work the sec- 
ond side gore same as the first. 

For the back, ch 147. Work back 
and forth the same as in the other 
sections, omitting the widening on 
the sides, thus keeping both edges straight. 
Work 68 rows clear across, then for the next 26 
rows work 72 back and forth each side of the 
placket. 

Fasten the wool in the right corner of the 
placket, and work a row of shells all around — 
each shell of 4 d c. joined by a s c. 



Square Shawl 

s c in 2d group, ch 5, i s c in 3d of 5 ch at corner, 
ch 5, s c in 1st of ch just made, ch 5. I s c in 3d 
group in 2d row, ch 5, i s c in 3d of 5 ch at corner, 
ch 5, I s c in 1st of ch just made. Work 36 rows 
like 3d. 

For ring border — * Chain 2, wind wool around 
finger 12 times, in ring thus formed work 2 s c, then 
2 ch, 2 s c in 1st ch of 36th row. Repeat from * 
all around shawl. 

Work 4 more rows of ch like 36th row, catching 
the 1st of the 4 into rings with 2 s c. 

Work 2d row of rings like 1st, tiien 4 more 
rows of ch like 36th row. 

For fringe — * Chain 14, s c in 2d st of 5 ch, ch 
14, s c in 4th of 5 cli. * Repeat from * all around 
shawl. 

Ladies' Petticoat 

Materials. — Twelve skeins of cream-white Shetland floss, 2 
yards of No. 4 ribbon, and a medium-sized bone crochet- 
hook. 

This petticoat is made in four pieces — the front 
gore, two side gores, and the straight back. The 
work is done in half double stitch, made by throw- 
ing wool over hook, taking a stitch through the 
chain, then drawing wool through the 3 stitches on 
the hook. Take the stitches through the back and 
front ones beneath. 




LAy)iES' Petticoat 

Join the gores by placing the straight edges of 
the side gores to the front, and the back joined 



to the bias edges of the side gores. Use the slip- 
stitch in joining the gores, being careful to have 
the ribs match. 

Begin at the left corner of the placket with ch 
5, and work a row of t c with 

1 ch between in e\ery alter- 
nate stitch of the top of the 
skirt. This row is for the 
ribbon. 

The border is crocheted on 
the lower edge of tlie skirt. 
For the 1st row make a s c 
in every stitch of the edge. 

2d rozv ■ — * Chain 5, skip 2 
st, s c in next st, ch 3. skip i, 
s c in next st, * repeat from 
the * across the row. 

3</ row — Chain 2, * i d c in 
ch 5 of 2d row. d c in next ch 
5. (ch 2, d c) 3 times in the 
same ch 5. Repeat from * to 
end of the row. 

4//i row — * Chain 4, s c be- 
tween the 1st and 21I d c of 
tlie 4 d c beneath, cli 4, s c be- 
tween the 3d and 4th d c of the same group of d c. 
Repeat from * to end of the row. Repeat the 3d 
and 4th rows each 3 times. 

The last row is made of 6 d c with 2 ch between 
into the 4 ch, fasten with s c into next 4 ch and 
repeat to end of the row. 

These directions make a skirt 29 inches long and 

2 1-2 yards wide at the lower edge. By making 
the skirt in gores there is no extra fulness around 
the hips. This garment is about right for a 24-inch 
waist, and may be increased or decreased at the 
beginning of the gores. 



the row, widening in every loth st as in the first 
row. 

The 5//; and 6th ro7vs are repetitions of the 2d 
and 3d rows. 




Neck Protector 



TERIALS. — Four skeins of Germantown. 
3 yards of No. 5 satin ribbon. 



fkein Sa 



Begin at the neck with a chain of 74 stitches, 
turn, work s c in 3d st from the hook and in each 
of the next * 9 chains, 2 s c in the loth st, and repeat 
from * to end of the row. The 2 s c in every lotli 
st makes the widenings. 

2d row — Chain I, turn, s c in each s c of the first 
row, taking up both stitches. 

3(/ I'ow — Chain 2, turn, and in each s c of the 
second row work a imff stitch as follows : Throw 
wool over hook as for d c, take a st through the s c, 
throw wool over again, take up another st in 
same place, this makes 5 sts on the hook, then 
draw wool through all the sts on the hook, and 
fasten by a s c. 

4th row — Chain i. turn, s c in each of the first 
9 puffs, 2 s c in the loth puff. Repeat to end of 



Neck Protector 



The next 18 rozcs are repetitions of the first three 
rows. 

Fasten wool in the right corner of the neck, ch 3, 
work d c in every alternate st of the neck with i 
ch between the d c — this makes the spaces through 
wliich tlie ribbon is run. 

For the border fasten the wool at left corner of 
tlie bottom (ch i, 2 d c, ch i, 2 d c, ch 1, 2 d c, ch 
I, 2 d c) between the 2d and 3d puffs, ch i, s c be- 
tween the 4th and 5th puffs. Repeat the above 
shells all around the protector. 

21/ ri>;, — Chain 2, 3 d c in the first ch I of the 
shell, ch I, 3 d c in next ch i. ch i. 3 d c in next ch 
I, ch 2. s c in the s c between the shells. Repeat 
across the row. 

Last ro7c — Chain i. 3 d c in first ch i, fasten 
with a s c in second d c of the first group, 3 d c in 
t!ic next ch i, s c in middle d c of the next group, 
and repeat across the row. Tliis makes a fluted 
I .order. 

Run ribbon through the spaces at the neck, leav- 
ing ends to tie. Fasten ribbons in the middle of 
tlie front and at the lower corners to tie 

This is very pretty and useful to wear under the 
wrap as a protection for the neck and shoulders. 



Rainbow Scarf 

Either Saxony or floss may be used for this work, 
about si.x skeins of white and half a skein of each 
of the colors used being required. The stitch used 
is original and is easy to do, fluffy in effect, will 



keep its shape well. Use a medium-sized bone hook 
and work as follows : 

Chain 68 sts of the white, ist row — Turn and 
work back thus: Draw out st on hook to about 3-4 




Rainbow Scarf 



of an inch, pass hook under the single thread of 
wool, draw through st, pass it under wool, work 
a si st, I ch (in this way you work first st of 
every row). To make second st * pass hook 
through second, draw up to three-fourths of an inch, 
catch the wool and make 2 close ch ; repeat from * 
to end of chain. Turn and repeat from first row 
till you have worked 76 rows in the white wool. 

To make the rainbow stripe — Fasten in the red 
wool and work two rows, then, in the order named, 
— orange, yellow, light green, dark green, indigo, 
light blue, violet. Finish the end with two or more 
rows of white. 

To make the fring,? — * Chain 35. fasten down in 
next st with a si st ; repeat from * to end of row. 
Finish both edges of the scarf with a row of knot 
stitch. 



Ladies' Hood in Staple Work 

The lining of this hood may be made of any 
of the heavier wools and in any close stitch. In the 
illustration it is made of Germantown, in star 
stitch. Of this material it takes two skeins. Four- 
fold zephyr would be softer and about as warm. 
and five skeins would be required. The outside 
is made of two-fold zephyr on an inch and a half 
staple, and it takes two skeins. One ball of silk 
will make the edge. 

For the lining — Chain 5 ; work a row of 7 stars 
of 4 loops each, and fasten in top of ist star by 
slip stitch. 2d rozv — Widen every other star as in 



detail and continue increasing one star every row 
between widenings until you widen every 8 stars 
in gtli rozv. In lolh row widen at centre top, and 
back. Crochet 3 rows around plain and then, 
leaving off 6 stars at back, crochet 
8 rows across front without widen- 
ing. (See detail star st, page 3.) 
For the outside, crochet a whole 
skein on the staple. Cut off 60 
loops, counting loops on one side 
only. Draw a piece of wool 
through loops on one side of strip 
and tie tightly, which forms the 
centre. Join 2d roiv to this by 
drawing 2 loops of centre through 
4 of strip. Fasten ends together 
as neatly as possible. 3</ ran' — 
Draw 3 of centre through 4 of 
strip. 4th rozv — Draw 3 of cen- 
tre through 3 of strip. These 
four rows should run clear 
around crown. The next three 
should be joined to each other by 
3 loops and also to centre, leav- 
ing off 20 loops of centre at back. 
Pin the outside in place over the lining. Crochet 
the other skein up for frill and join to hood thus: 
Chain 3, catch by s c first into hood then into 5 




Ladies' Hood in Staple Wokk and Star Stitch 



loops of strip, making it as full as desired. A 
pretty finish is a strip of the staple work sewed 
on where frill joins hood. An edge of silk 
is then crocheted around the edge of frill and 
around both sides of strip sewed on. by crocheting 
chain 5 and catching in two loops of staple work. 
In this design the strip sewed on above frill is made 
on a smaller staple. 

Cotton Skirt 

This skirt is for a 26-inch waist and 46-inch hip 
measure. Use No. 8 tidy cotton and make a chain 
to go around the hips. In this skirt it was 323 chain 
which made 106 spaces. 

1st row. — A d c into the sixth ch from hook (2 ch, 
a d c in 3d ch) repeat until there are 106 spaces in 
row. 




COTTON Skirt 

2d roiv. — Three ch to turn, then 3 d c in each space. 

2,(1 row. — Three ch, 2 d c in 2 d c (take up both 
loops to make it strong), 3 ch, miss 3 d c, 3 d c in a 
row. Repeat to the end. 

4//! rozi.'. — Three d c on 3 d c and 3 ch between. 
Repeat this row 20 times, which makes it long enough 
for the placket. 

Pin the ends over each other four spaces for the 
placket and in the next row work through it at once, 
this fastens, join on the beginning of the row. After 
making the placket work five rows around the same 
as before, only joining each time to the beginning of 
row. 



1st rozv of flounce. — Begin with 9 d c in a row, 
start from a solid block, if you do not end on one 
then slip stitch to one. Chain 3 and 2 d c in the block. 
3 in the space and 3 on the ne.xt block, the 3 ch on 
the end counts as a d c ; a butterfly scallop in ne.xt 
space made of 3 ch, now 5 d c in the space, but only 
worked off to the last loop imtil the last is made, then 
cotton over and draw all the loops together, 5 ch and 
again 5 d c in the same space worked off the same 
way as before, 3 ch and 9 d c in a row, three on the 
blocks and three on the space ; 3 ch and pass over the 
open space and begin from the beginning but without 
the 3 ch. Repeat until you have 13 butterfly 
scallops, join on the three chain. 

2d row of flounce. — Slip stitch over one d c, 3 ch 
and 6 d c on 6 d c and 3 d c on the 3 ch, making 10 
d c with the 3 ch in a row. * Now a butterfly scallop in 
the centre of the one below; 10 d c in a row, begin- 
ning with three under the 3 ch and 7 d c on 7 d c, I 
ch, miss 2 d c, I d c in the space, I ch, miss 2 d c on 
other side, now 10 d c in a row and repeat from * all 
around. Join on the 3 ch. 

3(i ro'i.' of flounce. — Same as the second row except 
only missing I d c on each side of the indent, so 
that it makes 12 d c in a row on each side of the but- 
terfly scallop, and a d c on the d c in the indent. Re- 
peat this row seven times more. Of course the d c in- 
crease in nimiber each row. 

iith rocc. — No increasing is done after this. Work 
as before but miss 3 d c on both sides of the indent. 
Work 7 rows like it. 

Scallops in the indents between points. — Fasten 
cotton in the 4th d c on right side of indent; ch 3, 
a scallop of 6 d c in the d c between points, 3 ch, a 
slip-stitch in opposite 4th d c. 

_'(/ roiv. — Slip stitch up 4 d c, turn, 3 ch, 3 d c 
under 3 ch. one d c on each of 6 d c, 3 d c under 3 ch, 
3 ch, slip stitch on 4th d c on point. 

jrf roll'. — Slip stitch up 3 d c, 3 ch. 3 d c under 
3 ch, (3 ch, 3 d c on 3 d c), three times more; 3 ch, 
3 d c under 3 ch, slip stitch on 4th d c of point. 

4//1 row. — Slip stitch up 3 d c, 3 ch, 3 d c under 
3 ch, ( now 3 ch and 3 d c over each 3 d c ) four 
times in this rciw ; 3 ch. 3 d c under 3 ch, slip stitch 
in 4th d c on point. 

Repeat this 4th row five times more which will fill 
the indent between points. The last should be fast- 
ened right in the centre of the butterflies. Without 
breaking the cotton slip stitch down the side of the 
point to the last 4th d c and repeat from the begin- 
ning. 

I5order the scallops with butterfly scallops made 
like this: 

Fasten cotton on centre of a point, ch 3. 5 d c 
worked off to the last loop until last is made then 
draw cotton through all the loops, make in first 3 ch 
space, 4 ch, and again a wing of 5 d c in same place, 
3 ch and a slip stitch on the centre of 3 d c. Repeat 
this for each space of scallops all around. 



Nightingale 

vhite, : 

Begin at the neck with white, with a chain of 
80 stitches; turn, make 3 d c in the 5th st of chain, 
* ch I, skip 2 St of foundation chain, 3 d c in next, 
repeat from * 4 times, ni.ikiiiL; '> ,^r'iii|i- 111 all: 




Ladies' Mittens 

black, bone Materials. — Three ounces of two-ply zephyr. 

Chain 71 sts and join; make 34 stars on this 
chain; work 8 rows of stars. At the beginning of 
the 9th row widen by working two stars over one, 
widen also the next star; widen every other row. 
This makes the thumb, and there ought to be 12 
stars, when you widen the 5th row, including 
the 10 that are widened. Crochet another row 
after the 5 rows widened. Now drop ofif the 
12 stars for the thumb and chain 8 sts, and 
join to the 13th star. The chain sts must be 
picked up the next row. There ought to be 34 
stars around the mitten, and if too many, narrow 
at the thumb by taking two stars in one, crochet 
14 rows and narrow. Narrow two stars in one, 
crochet 2 stars between, narrowing all around the 
glove, crochet two rows, crochet i, narrow i all 
around, crochet I row, narrow two stars in one 
until only 8 stars remain, draw wool through last 
stitch. Break wool, leaving enough to close with 



Nightingale 

in the next space increase by making 2 groups of 
3 d c, with I ch between ; work 5 groups, increase, 
5 groups, increase, 6 groups, which brings the work 
to the end of chain. 

Work 24 more rows, increasing always in the 
centre-back and upon each shoulder, and also mak- 
ing an extra group in beginning and ending the 
row. 

26th roll' — Work 15 groups as usual, ch 27, skip 
the next 34 groups, work 14 groups, increase in 
centre-back, work 14 groups, ch 27, skip 34 groups, 
and finish the row. 

Work two rows in black, increasing as usual in 
beginning and ending, and centre-back, and mak- 
ing 9 groups on each under-arm chain ; then work 
two rows in white, one row of black across bot- 
tom, up the front, around neck, and down the sec- 
ond front ; then a final shell row, as follows : One 
s c in first space. 6 d c in next space, and repeat. 

To finish the sleeves begin at one corner of the 
under-arm chain, with white, work 10 groups 
across the chain, and the 34 groups, increasing in 
the centre space as usual. Work two rows in 
black, one white, one black, and the final shell row 
in black. Run ribbon in at the neck for ties. 




Ladies' Mitten 



sewing needle. Pick up stitches at thumb and nar- 
row to 14 stars. Crochet 9 rows and narrow two 
stars in one until there are only 6 stars, finish as 
before. Crochet a shell scallop at the wrist. 





Nightingale 


Materials. — One poi 
of white ribbon \ 


ind 6 ounce? of three-ply wool, 
;i inch wide, bone crochet-hoolc. 



Chain io8; that is enough for 35 groups, with 
2 ch between each group and 3 ch to turn around. 




1st roiv — A group consists of * 3 d c, 2 cli, i s c. 
Miss 2 ch, and repeat from * till there are 35 groups 
in the row. 

2d row — Turn aniund with 3 ch, which, you count 
as I d c in this group. You always put the group 
between the s c and first d c of the group in 
previous row. 

Continue till there are 1S4 rows, which make 
60 inches. It takes two rows to make one edge 
group. 

Work this pattern all around tlie nightin- 
gale three times. 

l.f/ ro'cv- — Plain. 

2d roiv — Increase at the four corners by work- 
ing one extra group each side of the centre group. 

2,d row — Plain. 

Then turn back and work the same pattern 
around the opposite way three times. 

4</t roiv — Increase at the four corners. 

5//( row — The same way : no increase. 

6th roiv — The same way: increasing at the 
four corners. 

To Make Up. — Double the work end to end. 
and nine inches from each side of the middle front 
edge join together to form the fold at the back; 
ten inches farther down each front edge put some 
ribbon to tie the fronts together round the neck. 



Put two pieces of ribbon about five inches below 
this, and two more at the bottom of front edges. 

Cuffs. — Take two back corners ; turn the points 
back five inches and tie the two points or corners 
thus formed together with ribbon. 



Knee Cap 



Ma 



ply 



Ls. — Number 9 



chet-hook and 3 full ounces of fo 



Work 42 chain rather easily. 

1st roiv — Miss I ch and work 41 s c. 

2d roiv — One ch to turn, s c in back loop of each 
St in previous row, 41 in all. Repeat the 2d row 
till six rows in all are done. 

jth row — One ch to turn, s c as usual in each 
of 20 sts, 3 s c in the front part of the next st, that 
is the front instead of the back, 20 s c to finish the 
row as usual. 

X'ow go on in this fashion, making a ch to 
begin, and the 20 s c each in the back of the st 
below. Then for the middle part, always working 
on the front part of the si, and putting 3 sts in the 
middle st every other row, and 20 s c on the other 
side of centre until there are 21 rows of the middle 
work : then work 6 rows without increase, but in 
the same style. There should be 20 ridged, 21 
plain, and 20 ridged in each of the six rows. Now 
decrease a st in every row, by missing it altogether, 







W--- ' 







Crochet Knee Cap 

or draw the wool through first one st and then the 
other, and then work the three loops on the hook 
off as if they were one st. Repeat until you are 
down to 41 sts again, when you work six plain rows 



as at the beginning, or until the cap is large enough. 
Sew or crochet the two edges together. 

Note. — To make the cap smaller, either do fewer 
rows in the increasing part or underneath, or use 
a slightly smaller hook. To make it larger, do one 
or two extra plain rows. Practically the same re- 
sult of cap with less trouble will be attained by 
working in ridged crochet all along and increasing 
by putting 2 sts in the middle of every row instead 
of 3 sts in every other row, until the 6l sts are 
gained, while si.x ridged rows without increase 
must be worked. The decreasing is done by taking 
2 sts together every row in the centre, keeping the 
ridged crochet as usual all the time. 



Ripple Shawl 

The shawl illustrated is a new pattern, com- 
posed almost entirely of knot-stitch. While the 
stitch should be made rather loosely, the knot should 
be drawn tightly to give the work the much desired 
fluffy effect. A shawl made in this stitch is sure 
to keep its shape, for unlike the very open shell 
work, it cannot sag. 




Ripple Shawl 

This shawl will require 9 skeins of white and 2 
of colored Shetland floss. The shawl measures 25 
inches from the neck to edge, with a sweep of 26 
feet. If a deeper shawl is desired, make more 
rounds before putting on the border. 

Use a medium-sized bone hook, and work as fol- 
lows: Chain 5 and join. 

1st roiv — Work 12 d c in ring. 

2d rozv — Work 12 double knot stitches in the 
12 d c of last row. 



3ii a)id 4th rows — Plain (catching k st into k 
St in usual way). 

5//j row — Chain 2, make double k st, fasten in 
next st, * 2 plain, i d c between the next 2 k sts, 
repeat from * all the way around. 

You will notice that the 2 ch and the 3 d c sts 
make 4 widenings in this row ; repeat the above 
row, always making 2 ch at the beginning of a 
row and 3 d c in 3 d c of last row, till there are 
40 k sts, or 10 sts between widenings. In the next 
row begin to widen 8 times in a row, make 2 
ch, then 5 double k sts, then widen between the 5th 
and 6th st ; repeat all way around. 

Repeat the above row till tliere are 22 sts be- 
tween widenings. In the next row begin to widen 
16 times in a row. Widen in usual way. Work 
II k sts, and widen between nth and 12th sts; re- 
peat all way around. Repeat this last row till the 
shawl is the desired depth. Fasten in the colored 
wool, and begin the border thus: Make 8 ch and 
fasten back in the 3d ch with a si st, 3 ch, and 
fasten to the next k with si st ; repeat all the way 
around. In widening in this row do so by making 
2 of these sts in one k st. This to be done 16 times, 
midway between widenings of previous rows. 
After finishing row. tie and clip wool. Fasten 
wool to a picot of last row. Make 9 ch (this to 
widen), fasten back in 4th ch with si st, 4 ch, fasten 
to next st with si st. Repeat all the way around; 
tie and clip wool. Fasten white wool to a picot. 
Now make the k sts the length of a ch st longer 
than those you made in the body of shawl (this to 
widen). Work the next three rows plain. In 
the 5th row widen 16 times in the usual way, only 
let the widenings come midway between those in 
previous rows. Make I or 2 more rows plain, 
and begin the scallop edge thus : * Make I k st, ch 
5. fasten back in k with si st, make I k st, and 
fasten down in the usual way. Now make 2 double 
k sts, and fasten down in the usual way, and repeat 
from * all the way around. This will alternate I 
picot and 2 plain k sts all the way around. Tie and 
clip wool, b'asten wool to a k st to left of a picot. * 
make a double k st, then 12 t c in the picot, with I 
ch between t c, and fasten down to k with si st ; 
repeat from * all the way around. Tie and clip 
wool. Fasten wool to k between shells. * Work 
a k st like those in border, fasten to first t c of 
shell with si st, make 2 short k sts. fasten to next 
t c ; repeat all the way around shell. There should 
be 9 double k sts in all. Work i long k st and 
fasten to k between shells, and repeat from * all 
the way around. Tie and clip wool. Fasten colored 
wool to a k between shells, and work around shell 
in short k sts. 

The k sts in body of shawl are about three- 
quarters of an inch long. If desired, they might be 
made one inch long from the directions given. 



Auto Scarf 

eins two-fold Saxony, and a medium- 
Begin with a chain of 87 stitches. Turn and 
work a d c in the sth st from the hook, d c in the 
next ch, then go back and work a d c in the ch st 




Auto Scarf 



before the first 2 d c, skip i ch, 2 d c, then d c back 
in the skipped stitch. Repeat to the end of the 
row, making 29 groups of d c. Turn and ch 3, 
and work a group over a group. Repeat this row 
until the scarf is the desired length. Crochet a 
row of shells across the sides — each of 3 d c into 
each row of the scarf. 

Cut the fringe into 20-inch lengths. Tie 3 strands 
into each group of d c and also between the groups. 
Knot 3 times, as seen in the illustration, beginning 
with 2 groups tied. Trim ends of the fringe to 
make it even. 

This scarf measures 2 yards in length and 15 
inches in width. 



Ladies' Slippers 



skeins light, 



Materials. — Two skeins dark four-ply w 
and short crochet-hook to correspond. 

These slippers are small 4's in size and are 
worked in a stitch that e.xactly resembles double 
knitting, and both sides being alike and the work 
solid and durable, it is admirably adapted for slip- 
pers, boots, afghans, etc. 



Begin with the darkest shade; work a ch of 14. 
On this work a row of s c ; at the end ch i, turn. 

2d row — One d c in the first st, taking up both 
edges of the loop; * I ch, miss I, i d c in the ne.xt; 
repeat from*. Always work a ch at the end of the 
row. Increase a stitch in beginning each row. 

3rf row — One d c at the edge, i ch ; work a d c in 
the s c under the i ch st, in the first row, putting 
the hook right through the two sides of the st, i ch, 
a d c in the st under the next ch. 

4th roiv — The lightest shade, work in exactly the 
same manner, taking up the d c st of the second 
row. 

5//1, 6th and jth roivs — The darkest shade, so 
making the darkest shade work into the lightest, 
and vice versa, but always 3 rows of dark. 

When you have 21 sts, counting from the first 
row on your work, divide for the sides. Increase 
in the first and third rows only on the outside, and 
decrease in the same rows on the inside; work 10 
d c on each side, and 21 double rows; work a row 
less or more if necessary for any given size. 

Knit Frill for the Edge. — Cast on 6 stitches. 

1st roi<.> — The needle into the st; wind the wool 
twice round the left needle, and over the first finger 
of that hand; knit the st then as usual. Knit back 
the row plain. 

Knit 2 looped rows of the dark shade, i loop row 
of the light shade alternately, until you have enough 
to sew round the edge of the slipper. 




Ladies' Slipper 



Auto Priscilla Hood 

Materials. — About j full ounces by weight of solid color and 
nearly 2 ounces of trimming color for front; 3 yards of 3J^- 
inch ribbon (satin is prettiest) for strings. Black and cream, 
brown and cream, brown and pink, or any preferred com- 
bination, can be used. Rather a fine hook, about No. u 
or 13, to make each shell nearly or quite J^ inch square. 

Take the crown color and chain 9 on which work 
3 stars. Now work around and around, widening 3 
stars at end, working one opposite each of the 
3 on other side the chain, then 5 across the end, 
keeping the stars along the centre even with the 




Auto Priscilla Hood 

stars already in the centre as much as possible, 
and so go on, around and around, increasing finally 
where needful till the work is about 7 inches across 
the narrowest measurement, that is, from side to 
side. Now work 5 rows in s c, increasing where 
needful to keep the work flat. Then two rows of 
star St. Then work two more rows of s c, but do 
not increase; one of d c ; one of s c; one of d c; 
and now you begin to decrease. 

1st row decrease — Work the row in s c, tak- 
ing every 8th and 9th sts together. 

2d row decrease — Double crochet, taking two 
together over every decrease in row below. 



3d row decrease — * Work 9 sts in s c then 
miss 3 sts, and repeat from *. 

4th row decrease — * Work 15 sts, miss 3 sts, 
and repeat from * all around. Any time the num- 
ber of sts does not come out even it does not mat- 
ter. Break off the wool. 

You now work several rows to make the front a 
little deeper than the back. Mark the exact front, 
and also the back, with a piece of colored wool or 
cotton. Begin about a third of the way past the 
middle of the back, and work a s c in each st. 
Break oiif. 

For second short row begin about half way be- 
tween the front and back, or a trifle nearer the 
front; measure your work and if it is more than 22 
or perhaps 23 inches whole width, 11 or 11 1-2 
inches in the half width, which it probably will be, 
decrease at regular intervals, but be particular to 
take the decreasings exactly over the decreases pre- 
viously made at the front, so that the front may 
look fuller than the back. If you do not get it 
decreased sufficiently in one row, work another the 
same way, but begin it within a few inches of the 
front, and end at the same point at the other side. 
The idea is to get the front of the crown fuller and 
longer at the front than at the back. Break off the 
wool. 

Front of Hood. — Use the wool selected for the 
front. Make an easy chain, which when closed in 
a circle will be as large as the circle of the crown. 
Count and put a measure in the exact half of this 
circle; work on this chain in s c till you come to 
the marked spot; put 2 sts in that spot, finish the 
rows as usual and join. Work five more rows 
in this way, keeping the mark in place and always 
increasing a st as near middle of front as possible, 
loin the beginning and end of each row at the 
finish. Mark the end of last row. 

1st shaping roiv — Slip st over about 8 sts then 
make 2 loose ch, and make a d c in next and con- 
tinue till you have a d c in each of 10 sts; then s c 
through tile 2 top loops as usual of every st till you 
come to the i8th st from the middle mark at the 
back; this will be the 26th st from where you began 
the row. Work 10 d c to match those at beginning. 
Turn. 

2d shaping rozi' at front — Make 2 ch, work the 
first 3 sts together as i st ; then work 15 d c, al- 
ways taking up both top loops, go on with s c till 
there are 18 sts left on other side; then work 15 d c 
and take the last 3 sts as one st. 

3(f rozv — Take the first 3 sts together; work 20 
d c, 3 s c and si st; break off the wool; work the 
other side the same way. You may begin at the 
end of row. 

4th roiv — Work in the same manner, but only 
work 10 d c instead of 20. 

5th row — Fasten on as usual, taking 3 sts as one. 



work 20 d c ; work in s c across till there are 23 sts 
left ; finish the row as you began it. 

6tli row — Begin as usual, work 25 d c ; 3 s c, 
and break off, drawing the wool through the 
fasten it. Do the other side the same way. 

7//; roiv — Begin as usual, taking 3 together, 
25 d c, work in s c till you have 28 sts left. 
25 d c, then take 3 together. 

Note. — In working over the ends of the 



I si St 
st, to 



work 
W'ork 




Ladies' Jacket 

rows, it may be found well to work quite over 
them into the row below. It does not matter so 
tliat they are neat. 

Front Turnover. — Work evenly in star st all 
across the row just done, allowing J sts to every 
star. 

Return rozv — Work 2 s c over every star in 
the return row. In working the s c in the return 
row, it is as well to only take the front loop of the 
star in I st and put the other into the hole in the 
centre of star. It looks a little better on the right 
side. Work this star row and s c return row till 
you have altogether 9 rows of star stitch with a 
row of s c between. Break off and fasten in the 
end of wool at the end of the star stitch row with- 



out working the row of s c ; run in the end. 

Put the front and crown together, seeing that 
the middle mark of front crown part is to the 
middle mark of front part, and that they are also 
even at the back ; also be careful to so arrange them 
that the turnover will turn over and show on the 
right side of cap. If there is any spare fulness put 
it towards the front, near the top. Crochet them 
together, on the wrong side; if, when finished, the 
crown seems likely to be too large, run in a double 
strand of wool and tie to size. 

Then crochet a tiny flat scallop of 3 d c to a scal- 
lop with a s c between scallops, and arranged so 
that they are neither full nor tight. In the model 
a s c was in the centre of one star, the 3 d c in 
the centre of the next, a s c in the centre of the 
next, and so on. Around the back they were ar- 
ranged to suit. Remember the back of the hood 
nuist have the final row put so that it is right side 
out, and you must begin again to have the final 
row of front, right side out. 

Draw in all ends, and arrange ribbon. In the 
model about 26 inches were marked off, a single 
tie luade in the middle of it, and it was arranged 
along the back, and the remainder cut off. This 
remainder was cut into two strings which were 
arranged with a single bow, fastened at the junc- 
tion of crown and front, and brought down across 
(he ends of the back ribbon, and fastened. 

Note. — The front of the cap can be put back, or 
forward, however, and the strings arranged ac- 
conlingly. For cold trips it would be better if 
made to fit snugly. 

Ladies' Jacket 

For wearing under a raincoat this tight-fitting 
jacket is most desirable. The special points to 
which I wish to call your attention are — the ab- 
sence of plaits and belt, the collarless effect at 
throat, the tight-fitting back, and absence of under- 
arm seams. A medium-weight yarn and a firm, 
tight stitch, and small bone hook, are the most 
desirable in making a shaped jacket, as a loose, 
flimsy stitch would make a practically shapeless 
garment. For that reason crazy-stitch and Shet- 
land floss were selected. The body color is light 
gray with red trimmings. 

Materials used: One box light gray Shetland 
floss and one skein of red. The garment measures 
as follows when completed, holding the work slack 
as measured. If stretched out it would measure 
several inches more in width, but not a material 
difference in length. Waist — 27 inches. Hips — 
32 inches. Bust — ^6 inches. Back — 17 inches 
long; 13 inches wide between shoulders. Shoulder 
seam — 5 inches. Front — 14 inches long from neck, 
and 9 inches wide through the fulness. Sleeve — • 
22 inches length of top arm, 16 inches under arm. 



17 inches at widest point, and 8 1-2 inches at 
wrist. Having these dimensions given it will be 
easy for any one to measure herself and make 
changes in the work to correspond. Remembering 
that the work will stretch several inches in width, 
it will therefore fit a 37 or 38 bust, but will not 
stretch in length. 

Commencing at the waist line, chain 219 worked 
tight, turn and work 3 d c in ch 4 from the hook ; 
skip 3 ch sts and s c into ch 4, ch 2, 3 d c into ch 
where s c was made. Skip 3 ch sts and s c into 
ch 4 ; repeat until you have 54 groups. Chain 3, 
turn and work 3 d c into s c of last row where ch 

3 seems to start from, catch by s c into top of next 
group and ch 2, make 3 d c into the opening made 
between ch 2 and the 3 d c of group; catch by s c 
into top of next group and repeat to end of row. 
Work 4 rows without widening, turn and work 15 
groups on 5th row; widen in i6th group by work- 
ing a shell of 2 d c, ch 2, 2 d c, into opening where 
you have been making the ordinary groups. This 
is the method by which crazy-stitch is widened, 
and is to be followed when directions say widen. 
After widening, work 32 groups, widen, 15 groups. 
This widening divides the jacket into fronts and 
back; Widen under arm every 4th row ; that is, 
work 3 rows without widening, then widen in 4th 
row, being particular to keep places of widening 
right over each other. Widen 5 times under each 
arm (widening every 4th row). When you come 
to the 13th row, work 5 groups from outside edge, 
widen in 6th, 5 groups, widen in 6th, 7 groups, 
widen under arm, work across back, widen under 
arm, 7 groups, widen in next, 5 groups, widen, 5 
groups, which brings you to front edge if your 
work has been done correctly. The 14th row is 
plain clear across. Widen at points in front on 
15th row, working 6 groups, widen, 6 groups, widen. 
This ends the widening in fronts. After the widen- 
ing under arm in 21st row, work 9 rows across 
plain. Turn and work 10 rows of 18 groups each 
across one front; on nth row widen at armhole ; 
I2th row plain. We are now counting the- rows 
from 1st short row. In the 13th row the narrow- 
ing begins. W'ork 9 groups from front edge, when 
catching down 9th group, catch into top of 2 groups 
underneath at once and work a s c, 4 groups, and 
catch as before into top of next 2 groups by 
ISC, making the I s c connect both groups, work 

4 groups to armhole. Narrow again in 4th row, 
which will be the 17th row, at both points. In 5th 
row from other widening at armhole, widen again. 
When you have worked 50 rows, counting from 
base line, drop out 4 groups at front edge for neck. 
Now, beginning with this short row to count. 

2d rozv — Turn and work back to armhole, widen 
at armhole. 

2d row — Turn and work back to neck. 



4th row — Chain 3, and instead of working group 
in s c, catch by s c into top of group where next 
group is to be made, thus dropping off the I group 
at edge of neck. Work back to armhole. 

^th and 6th rows are plain. 

yth row — Leave off I group at shoulder seam, 
turn. 

Sth row — Leave off i group, at beginning of row 
at neck, working 8 groups back to shoulder seam. 
Break wool. 

gth roiv — Turn and tie wool in 2d group, work 6 
groups to neck. 

10th row — Turn and work 4 groups, break wool. 

11th row — Two groups at neck point. When you 
have finished one front work the other in the same 
manner, leaving off groups at neck and armholes 
to correspond to first side made. 

The back is then worked as follows : Tie wool 
in top of 4th group from front at armhole, working 
across to other armhole, leaving off 3 groups 
there also. Chain 3, turn and leave off ist group, 
work to end of row, turn, and leaving off ist group 
work to end of row, leaving off last group. The 
same is done at ends of next row, when your back 
should be 26 groups wide. Work 23 plain rows, 
widen at each end of 24th ; 25th row is plain. 
Leave off one group at shoulder seam every 3 
rows until only 8 groups are left. This finishes the 
body of the jacket. The skirt is made by working 
13 rows of crazy-stitch in gray, widening in 3d row 
at two points, front and back of hips, thus : Widen 
in the loth group from the front edge, and in the 
loth group from that, working across skirt to 20th 
group from other front, widen in the 20th group. 
Work 9 groups and widen in loth, work 9 groups, 
which should bring you to front edge. 

The sleeve is begun at the top with the gray wool. 
Chain 52, on which make 13 groups; ch 3, turn and 
widen at beginning and end of row. Widen at each 
end of 4th, 7th, 9th, I2th, 14th. 17th, 19th, 22d, and 
24th rows: work 25th row plain, which brings the 
work to the under-arm extension. It is now 16 
inches across and 6 1-2 inches deep. Chain 11, 
turn and work 2 groups on the chain just made, 
which brings you to the row of groups, work across 
this and at end of row ch 11. turn and proceed as 
before. Work 6 rows across plain, then decrease 
one at end of next row. Counting the row just 
made as one, work 6 rows without decreasing, 
then turn and leave off I group at each end. 
Counting this last row, work 6 rows again, then 
narrow and work 6 rows more, narrow and work 
6 rows more. Then narrow and work 4 rows, 
always counting the row as one in which you leave 
off the groups at ends. Work 3 groups of 4 rows 
each. So continue to leave off i group at each end 
until you have only 16 groups. Work 5 rows of 
18 groups, which should complete 75 rows. Tie in 



the led wool and work 8 rows red, then 4 rows 
gray, i row red. 

The sleeves now being finished, sew up the seam 
on the wrong side, fitting the jagged edges into 
each other, which if done carefully will make a 
perfectly flat seam. The shoulder seams should 




Ladies' Cape 

be joined in like manner. The sleeves are to be 
sewed in by joining under-arm points and sewing 
without any fulness until at point at top, where 
all the fulness should be gathered into about 5 
inches. 

To give the jacket a double-breasted effect, tie 
in the gray at lowest point of front on one side, 



and at the neck on the other, to make the row 
wrong side out ; work row of groups to other end 
of front, turn and work a row of groups to waist 
line, turn and work a row, leaving off last 2 groups, 
turn and work to end of row, leaving off 2 groups, 
continue until you have 7 rows, leaving off 2 
groups at end of each row. The 7th row will have 
about 16 groups. Around the whole jacket now 
work a row of red. 

If it is desired a loose straight front may be 
made by changing the row in which the widening is 
done in the front. Instead of widening in the 
13th and 14th rows, widen in the 2d and 3d rows, 
which throws the fulness lower down, leaving out 
the widening in the 13th and 14th rows, and cro- 
cheting the front plain until directions say narrow. 



Ladies' Cape 



The yoke is made first. It is formed of six sec- 
tions joined. For one section begin with a chain of 
15, turn and make 14 half-doubles (h d c) on the ch. 
Work 2^ rows of b d c for one section, widening I st 
in each row by working a stitch in the base of the 3 ch 
at the beginning of each row. Take up the sts at 
the back. Make six of the sections and join by 
chaining 6, fasten by single crochet to the corner 
of a section, ch 6, fasten in second section, and 
continue the ch 6 back and forth until the sections 
are joined. Fasten wool at the front corner of the 
yoke at lower edge, ch 3, skip 2 sts, in the next st 
work a shell of 2 d c, ch 2. 2 d c, and repeat the 
shells in every 3d st across the front section. On 
the shoulder sections work a shell in every alternate 
st and in the back sections in every 3d st. For the 
ne.xt row ch 3, turn, and work a shell in a shell 
across the yoke. Repeat this row until the cape is 
2J rows deep. If the neck seems large, work a 
row of s c quite tight to draw it in. Work a row of 
treble crochet with 2 ch between, all around the 
cape through which to run the ribbon. 

For the border, begin at the lower corner and 
work a row of shells of 6 t c each and fasten by 
s c between, across the bottom. Work another row 
of shells, placing a shell in the middle of the ^hell 
beneath, and d c in each s c between the shells. 
The next row is of shells, each having 8 t c and s c 
between, and is worked all around the cape. Finish 
the edge with chains of 3 fastened into every stitch 
of the last shell row. Run the ribbon through the 
open spaces of the yoke, ending each strip with a 
loop and end. Also run the ribbon through the 
spaces around the cape, and through the neck 
spaces, leaving the ends long enough to tie. 



Shawl 

Materials. — Fourteen or fifteen skeins of Shetland floss for a 
shawl 1^2 yards square. Medium-sized bone crochet-hook. 

1st rocv — One short th st, * i long ch st made 
by drawing out the .st on the hook until it is about 




Detail of Shawl 

1-2 inch long before drawing the wool through 
it, I short ch st, s c back into the short ch st at be- 
ginning. * Repeat from * to * twice more ; then 
1 long ch st, I d c into same st with the 3 s c. Make 
this d c rather loosely, so that it will equal in 
length the long ch st. These four points are the 
beginning of the four corners of the shawl. 

2d row — One long ch st. d c of equal length 
back into the top of the d c made at end of first 
row. It is important that the hook be inserted 
in exactly the same place each time at this corner 
of the work, so that the corner where each row 
is commenced will look as nearly like the others 
as possible. Insert it straight through the st at 
top of d c with two threads in front of the hook. * 
Now make I d c forward into top of next point. 
At these points be careful to have the hook placed 
under the two upper threads of the short ch st, 
that is, the two that come through the long ch st 
leaving the one that was drawn through in work- 
ing the short ch st, bclozv the hook. This keeps 
the long ch sts at corners turned flat throughout 
the work, making them look more nearly like the 
other part of the work than they would do if the 
hook were inserted straight through the short st 
from front to back, instead of under it as described. 

After working d c work i long ch st. s c in same 
st with d c. Now widen at corner by working I 
long ch st, I short ch st, i long ch st. s c in same 
st with last s c ; I long ch st. d c back into st with 
s c. * repeat from * to * twice more ; d c forward 
into last corner, inserting hook in same place 
where it was inserted in making the first d c of 
this row, I long ch st. d c in same place. 

3^ roiv — Same as 2d. making tivo points be- 
tween the corners instead of one as in 2d row, 
and widening at each corner same as in last row. 

Be careful to make the long ch sts and d c of 



equal length. Each row is now made in same 
way, increasing one point on each side between the 
corners. There will be one point between corners 
of 2d row. 2 points in 3d row, 3 in 4th row and so 
on. 

Border. — When shawl is as large as desired, 
make border as follows : 

1st row — Three ch, s c in centre of point, 3 ch, 
s c in next point, repeat. 

2d row — Two d c made by working off first until 




Shawl 

there are two threads left on hook, then work the 
other d c, working off 2 threads at a time until all 
are worked off. This closes the 2 d c into I st at 
top; I ch. 2 d c worked as before, knot stitch made 
by drawing out the stitch on hook nearly 1-2 
inch in length, then working a s c between the st 



and the wool just drawn through it, repeat, work- 
ing a shell in each s c, and working 3 clusters of 
d c in shells on corners. Work 5 rows of shells, 
widening sufficiently at corners. 

For shells on edge work 6 long, loose d c with 
I ch between each, ch i, s c in next shell, ch I, re- 
peat in next shell and around shawl, working scal- 
lop in every alternate shell. 

For edge — Chain 2 loosel)', s c under first i ch 
of scallop, ch 2, s c in next i ch, repeat. After last 




CORNEK OF Shawl i.n Staple Crochet and Knot Stitch 

s c, which should be under the ch just before the 
s c in shell between scallops, s c under ne.xt i ch 
before beginning loops around next scallop. 

Shawl in Staple Crochet and Knot Stitch 



piece of staple work, put hook through first 5 loops, 
fasten with s c, single k s, fasten in next k s, in 
row with s c, single k s, take next 5 loops in lace, 
fasten with s c, repeat across strip. All the pieces of 
lace are crocheted together the same way and at the 
ends should there be a loop too many or not quite 
enough take up more or not so many, as the case 
may be; it will not be noticed when finished and 
saves counting. 
The border requires two strips of lace long enough 
to go twice around the shawl 
and is made as follows: 
Crochet four rows of k s all 
around shawl, taking up 5 loops 
on the lace and keeping as 
near as you can to the same 
distance between stitches 
across the ends of the first row 
around, always widening at 
the corners (so that the work 
will be kept flat and not draw) 
by adding more k s and taking 
from 6 to 8 loops in the lace. 

~,tli raw in border. — Work 
a single k s, fasten to lace by 
taking up 5 loops, fasten with 
s c, * single k s, fasten in bor- 
der, k s with s c, single k s, 
take 5 loops, fasten with so* 
repeat around widening at cor- 
ner. 

6th ro'iv. — Fasten wool in 5 
loops on border, work single 
k s, fasten with s c in 5 loops of 
lace, work single k s, take 5 
loops in border, single k s, 5 
loops in lace; repeat around 
border. 

^tli row. — One row k s all 
around. 

Sth rozi'. — One s c in k s be- 
tween loops, work a shell 
in k s, between next two loops consisting of 
seven long tr with 3 ch between each tr fastened 
in tr st to form a picot. Repeat around border, 
making shells to come between loops. Join lace- 
work ends neatly with needle and wool. 



Materials. — Fo' 


ur skeins Shetlan 


long. 1% ir 


iches wide, which 


a lard paJI; 


crochet-hook. 



Ladies' Shawl 



Make 9 pieces of staple lace, each i yard long. 

1st row. — Take i strip, fasten wool in first 5 loops, 
* work a group of knot stitch (k s), fasten with s c in 
next 5 loops, * repeat across row. 

2d rozi'. — Turn, work a row of k s across strip. 

jd rozv. — Turn, same as 2d row. 

4tli rozv. — Same as 2d row. 

5th rozv. — Turn, work a single k s, take a second 



Materials. — Twenty skein 
for the body of thavs-:. 



of Saxony for tli. 



zephyr 
border, 
crochet- 



Begin the shawl at the lower corner with a chain 
of 5 stitches, join with a slip stitch. In the ring 
work a shell of 5 d c, ch 4, shell of 5 d c in the first 
St of the 4 ch, fasten with s c in the middle of the 
shell beneath, shell of 5 d c in last st of the shell be- 



neath. Chain 2, turn and work a shell of 5 d c into 
the middle st of last shell, fasten with s c between the 
2 shells of the last row, shell of 5 d c into middle of 
next shell. This finishes the first 3 rows. Chain 4. 
turn, shell into first st of the ch, fasten into middle 




Ladies' Shawl 



of first shell with s c, shell between the first 2 bnelis 
of previous row, fasten into middle of shell with s c, 
shell into last st of the last shell. For ^tli roic. — 
Chain 2, turn, shell into middle of last shell of 4th 
row, fasten between shells, shell into middle of next 
shell, fasten between shells, shell into middle of next 
shell, fasten into last st of the last shell of 4th row. 

The remainder of the body of the shawl is a rep- 
etition of the 4th and 5th rows. It will be seen 
that there is a widening of one shell in every al- 
ternate row. In one row the shells are placed be- 



tween shells of the previous row, and the following 
row has the shells on top of shells of previous row. 
The widening is in the rows where shells come be- 
tween shells. This gives the body of the shawl 
the fluted effect. 

For the border. — Begin at the right corner of the 
top of the shawl with a ch of 6, skip 2 stitches on the 
edge, tr c (treble crochet) in the next st, ch 2, skip 
2 stitches, tr c in the next, and repeat all around the 
shawl. This makes the open spaces through which 
to run the ribbon. 

Work the openwork border cross the 2 sides. 
Begin at the left corner of the top. * Chain 6, fasten 
with s c in ch 2 beneath, repeat from * across the 
2 sides, widening at the lower corner so the work 
will be plenty full enough. Repeat this row 7 times, 
fastening chain in a chain. The 9th row is same as 
the other rows except the chain has 7 stitches. This 
finishes the border for the sides. 

Begin at the right corner of the top at the outer 
corner of the openwork border, shell of (3 d c, 2 tr 
c, 3 d c), fasten with s c into next open space. 
Repeat these shells across the top of the shawl. 

Run the ribbon through the open spaces and place 
a bow at each corner of the shawl, as seen in the 
illustration. 

This shawl measures 2 yards across the upper 
edge and i yard deep. 



f'^ 



Slumber Slippers 



These slippers are crocheted with a medium-sized 
hook and fourfold Germantown wool. To give a 
very soft kind of work. No. 7 or 8 hook may be used ; 
but this is inclined to be too thin when washed. 
About 9 or ID is better. About three ounces of wool 
will be needed. 

Make an easy chain about 9 inches long. Work 
in every stitch in single crochet. 

2d rozv. — Make i chain to turn ; work a single 
crochet in back loop of every stitch. Repeat this 
second row until you have a length of eighteen 
inches, no more, for an ordinary grown-up foot. 
Now, sew or crochet very softly and evenly the two 
sides of the work together ; then lay the work per- 
fectly flat and double, so that there are exactly the 
same number of rows on one side of the end seam 
as there are on the other. Now sew or crochet the 
edges very softly together so that you have a nine- 
inch deep bag. Crochet a row of single crochet 
around the top, then a round of holes, then a tiny edge 
or scallop. 

Make a good substantial chain to run through 
holes, and add tassels, or instead of chain add a rub- 
ber which fits the ankle easily, and put a ribbon bow 
in front, exactly opposite the seam at back. 

The slipper is put on the foot with the end of front 
seam up to the toes ; the other end comes under the 
heel. 



Fascinator 



vhite ce wool and a medii 



The body of the fascinator is in cross treble (c t) 
stitch. Begin at one edge with a chain of 150 sts. 





"T'^^H 


i^HIK 


WB^^^^ 


l^H 






^^Hfe 






W 




1^^" 


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p^T.' 


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mn 



Fascinator 

Wool over twice as in tr c, insert hook in the 5th 
ch from the hook and take a st, over, and skipping 2 
ch take a st in the next, then work off all the sts on 
the hook two at a time ; ch 2 and make a d c, then 2 sts 
at the middle of the c t. This makes i c t. For the 
next c t, over twice as before, take a st at the base of 
the first c t in the same st, and finish same as the 
first. Repeat the c t across the row, ending the row 
with a t c in the last st of the ch ; ch 4, turn, and 
make act over each c t of the first row. Repeat the 
rows until the work is a perfect square. 

For the border. — Chain 4, make a ring by wrap- 
ping wool 3 times around the thumb of left hand, 
insert the hook through the loops and make tight s c, 
ch 3, s c in next c t, another ring, and repeat the 
rings around the fascinator, placing them closer at 
the corners, and join the last to the first. The next 
2 rows are of knot stitch, making a knot in each ring, 
and for the next row placing a knot in a knot. The 
next row is rings. Make a * s c each side of the first 
knot, then a ring, ch 3, and repeat from * around 
the fascinator, making extra rings at the corners. 
Make the next row of knot stitch same as the second 
row, then another row of rings same as second ring 
row, then another row of knot stitch. For the next 
row, ch 7, fasten by a s c each side of the first knot. 



ch 7, and repeat around the fascinator. For the next 
row ch 7, and fasten by s c in the middle st of the 
7 ch in last row, and repeat. For the last row, * ch 
7, s c in the middle of 7 ch, ch 5 and fasten in same 
st as the 7 ch, and repeat from *. The border has 10 
rows. When finished the fascinator measures one 
yard square. 

Ladies' Fascinator in Staple Work 

Made on a three-inch staple of blue Shetland 
floss, two skeins being required. Draw wool 
through enough loops to lay in a smooth circle, 
then half as many more, it taking 105 loops in this 
design. Tie tightly and fasten ends. The 2d strip 
is joined to centre by drawing 2 loops of centre 
through 4 of strip, then through 2 of centre. Double 
a strip of five yards in the centre, draw wool 
through 40 loops and tie tightly. Join strip to- 
gether by working I ch and catching by s c into 3 
loops, first on one side, then the other. After 
working one yard together in this way, fasten wool 
and separate strips and join each to centre in oppo- 
site direction, one by 3 loops of centre to 4 of strip 
to make full for the front, the other by 3 to 3 for 
the back, joining strips together where they meet 
as before and drawing wool through 40 loops at 
end when string is even in length with first. This 
last row joining to crown should be looped through 




Ladies' Fascinator in Staple Work 

as in previous two rows. Around the entire edge 
crochet two rows of knot stitch as a finish. Use 
any trimming you may like. This design is finished 
with rosettes in baby ribbon and wool 



20 



Circular Shawl 



Materials. — On 



;-white Shetland floss. A medium-sized bone crochet- 
hook. 

Chain 4 and join in a circle. 

1st roiv — Chain 3, I d c in circle. Now work a 
knot-stitch by drawing out the st that is on the 
hook about 1-3 inch in length. Wool over and 
draw through. Then work a s c rather closely 




Circular Shawl 



in front of the long stitch and under the thread 
drawn through it. This completes a k St. Work a 
cluster of 2 d c in circle in this way: Wool over 
and insert hook in circle, wool over and draw 
through, making 3 sts on the hook. Wool over 
and draw through 2 sis. Now, leaving 2 sts on 
hook, wool over and again insert hook in circle, 
wool over and draw through, making 4 sts on 
hook, wool over and draw through 2 sts, wool over 
and draw through the 3 remaining sts. This com- 
pletes a cluster of 2 d c which, alternately with a 
k St is used throughout the work ; * I k st, cluster 
cf 2 d c made as before. * Repeat until there are 
8 k sts. Join 8th k st to 3d of 3 ch at beginning of 
row. 

2d roiv — Chain 3, d c in top of next d c, i k st, 
cluster of 2 d c (worked as before) in same st with 
d c just made, l k st, miss k st in last row and work 
cluster of 2 d c in top of next cluster. When in- 
serting the hook in the top of cluster put it not only 
mider the 2 threads of st directly on top, but also 
under the back thread of the st lying directly below. 



and which is twisted, or flattened. This makes 3 
threads above the hook and the hook is passed 
through the flat st. Be careful to do this through- 
out the Vvfork, as it gives the rows of d c radiating 
from centre to border of shawl a twisted, or cable 
appearance. Knot st, cluster of 2 d c in same place, 
* k st, 2 clusters of 2 d c separated by a k st 
in top of next cluster (made as described above).* 
Repeat from * to * around work. This row 
has been widened by working the 2 clusters in 
each cluster of last row, thus doubling the number 
of clusters and k sts; join last k st to 3 ch as be- 
fore. 

T,d roiv — Chain 3, d c in next d c, k st, * cluster 
of 2 d c in next k st, k st, cluster of 2 d c in next 
cluster, k st, cluster of 2 d c in next cluster, k st, 
repeat from * around work, ending with a k st 
joined to 3 ch at beginning. 

4f/t roiv — Beginning as in every row with 3 ch 
and d c, work k sts and clusters of 2 d c alternately, 
widening 8 times by putting 2 clusters, separated 
by a k st, in each of the 8 clusters that were worked 
in k sis in last row. Continue the work in this 
way, widening in 8 places in each row. 

In 2d. 4II1. 6th, and all even roivs the widenings 
are made by putting 2 clusters of d c in one cluster 
of the last row, while in the 3^, 5^/1, Jth, and all 
odd roivs the e.xtra cluster is put in the k st that 
separates those two clusters in last row. Keep 
tiie widenings in a straight line. Where each row 
is commenced with 3 ch and a d c, make this part 
to resemble the clusters of d c as closely as possi- 
ble, so the rows will look alike. 

When the body of shawl is of the desired size, 
work the border as follows : One d c in top of cluster 




Detail of Circular Shawl 



of 2 d c in last row, k st, shell of 2 d c, i ch. 2 
d c, in next cluster of 2 d c in last row, k st, i 
d c in next cluster, k st, shell in next, and so on, 
alternating shells and i d c with the k sts between. 

The first three rows are worked alike. Then 
work four more in the same way except that there 
are 2 ch in centre of each shell instead of I ch. 
This widens the border slifjhtly. 

In the 8th row work a scallop of 6 loose d c sep- 
arated by I ch, in a shell of last row. * i ch. s c in 
top of I d c of last row, i ch. scallop in ne.xt shell, 
repeat from *. 

For the edge, beginning with s c under the i ch 
just before the s c between 2 scallops, s c under 
next I ch, ch 2 loosely, s c under first space be- 
tween d c of scallop, repeat around scallop ending 
with a s c under i ch just before the s c between 
scallops in last row. Now work the next s c under 
the I ch before next scallop and repeat the loops of 
2 ch around each scallop but work the 2 s c be- 
tween scallops, zvithoiit any ch between. 

Silk Slippers with Wool Lining 

The lining of this slipper is made of four-fold 
zephyr in the ordinary s c ribbed slipper stitch and 
requires about 4 laps. Commence with a row of 
20 s c, ch 2, turn and taking up back st work 9 s c. 




Silk Slipper with Wool Lining 

widen in loth by putting 3 s c into it. 10 s c. ch 2, 
turn and work back and forth, widen in centre 
every other row, and taking up back st, which makes 
the ribs, until you have 12 ribs; turn and work 20 
s c back and forth until the strip will meet around 
the sole. Join together at side and toe. and sew to 
sole t)y overcasting it on the right side. 

The outside is of wheels and made of machine 
twist. Size F, and takes a one-ounce spool. Wind 
the silk around the end of an ordinary lead pencil 
ID times. Slip it off carefully and into this ring 
work 2 rows of 24 s c each. Around this work 12 
loops of 5 ch st each, skipping i s c and catching 
into next by s c. 

To join ivheels. — Work one entire wheel and the 



next all but the ch st loops, ch 2, catch into loop of 
1st wheel by s c, ch 3, back into unfinished wheel 
by s c, skipping l s c, ch 2, catch into ne.xt loop of 
1st wheel, ch 2. back into unfinished wheel by s c, 
skipping s c. Finish wheel by working 10 loops. 
In this manner work a strip of wheels to go around 
slipper, next to sole, and join together. Work a 
wheel and join to strip by 4 loops to the 4 loops of 
any one wheel of strip, and by 2 loops to first 2 
loops of each of the wheels on either side of the 
one just joined to, which forms the centre toe. 
This makes the slipper stand up from the sole, and 
gives it a better shape. This leaves 4 free loops on 
last wheel made, also 2 free loops on wheel at either 
side. The wheels now are joined to this strip 
across the toe in rows of 2. then 3. then 4, then 5, 
in this manner. Work one wheel all but the loops 
of ch sts, join by 2 loops to 2 loops of 2d wheel 
from centre wheel of strip, to 2 free loops of wheel 
ne.xt to centre, and to 2 loops of the 4 loops of 
centre wheel, finish wheel by working 6 free loops. 
Join another wheel in like manner, by 2 loops to 
this last wheel made, 2 loops to 2 free loops of cen- 
tre wheel, 2 loops to ist wheel from centre, and 2 
to first 2 loops of 2d wheel from centre, finish by 
working 6 free loops. Ne.xt join the 3 wheels in 
same manner, then 4 and then 5. This completes 
the toe. The strip around the back is 3 wheels 
deep, counting the row already made. In making 
the other rows join wheels as you work them by 2 
loops to each other and 4 to the bottom strip, so 
that the wheels will rest over the joining of wheels 
below, which is done by catching into 2 last loops 
of the one wlieel and the two first of the ne.xt. 

Finish the top with an hour-glass design to run 
the riblion through .is follows: Tie wool in 2d loop 
of wheel, ch 6, d c in next loop, ch 3, wool over 
the hook 3 times, catch into last loop of wheel and 
draw wool through, wool over, draw through 2 sts, 
wool over, draw through 2 more, wool over twice, 
catch into ist loop of ne.xt wheel, wool over, draw 
through 2 sts at a time till all are off, ch 3, wool 
over, catch in st at centre where all parts seem to 
join, work d c, ch 3. d c in 2d loop and repeat. 
This same edge is worked around the bottom to 
sew on bv. onlv wool is thrown over the hook but 
twice at beginning of hour-glass, and is caught in 
loops by s c instead of d c. 

The frill is just a full ruffle of ch sts. 5 long- 
drawn-out ch being in each loop, and 3 loops put 
into each opening. The 2d row is the same, chain 
5 and catch into the top of loops of preceding 
row by s c ; a silk edge is then worked around in 
same manner with same number of sts. The frill 
and row for ribbon is made of two-fold zephyr and 
one lap is required. Run in No. 2 satin ribbon of the 
same shade as the wool lining. Fasten with a bow. 



Scarf 



Make a chain of length desired for width of 
scarf. 

1st row. — Two d c in 3d st from hook. Shell of 
3 d c in every 3d st of chain, i d c at end to keep the 
edge straight, ch 3, turn. 




2d row is the familiar star stitch. Work 1st 
star as follows: insert the hook in ist one of 3 
ch (the one next the work), draw wool through 
rather loosely and keeping it on the hook, insert 
hook in back loop of stitch at top of d c on edge, 
draw wool through loosely as before and repeat 
in each d c of shell, taking up back loop each time. 
There will be 6 loops on the hook. Wool over and 
draw through all, then make a tight ch st which 



closes star. To make next star, take up first loop 
under one thread just below the "eye" of last star, 
second one in loop just below this one (where last 
loop of the other star was made), and the other three 
across the top of shell as before. Finish this star 
by closing with a tight ch st as before. The loops 
should be drawn out to equal lengths and loosely 
made. .After closing star with ch st, draw the st out 
rather loosely on hook before taking up loops for 
next star or the work will draw. Work a d c at 
end of row as before, ch 3, turn. 

3(/ roiv. — Shell of 3 d c in each star, putting it in 
eye of star, d c at end. 

4th row.— Star stitch. 

^th row. — Shells, and so on, alternating these two 
rows until of required length, keeping edges straight 
with d c and 3 ch at ends. 



■ 


m 


^^^ 




■i 


i 


1 


It^.v 


•W 


*. - 


I'- 


t 




t 


'/' 






l^,. 



Detail of Scarf 



To make scalloped edges. — Beginning with a s c 
at end, ch 2, 2 d c back into same st with s c, s c 
on edge of scarf just far enough from the first s c 
to make the small pointed scallop lie flat, ch 2, 2 d c 
back into same st with last s c, fasten down on edge 
with s c as before, repeat to end. 

To finish ends of scarf. — Chain 2, s c in first space 
between shells, ch 2, s c in next space, repeat. This 
makes a foundation for fringe. 

For heading of fringe. — Make 2 d c in each space 
across ends, working them as follows : Work off the 
first d c until there are 2 stitches left on hook, then 
instead of finishing in the usual manner, wool over 
and work another d c in same place, working off 2 
threads at a time until all are worked off. This 
closes the 2 d c into i st at top, 2 ch, 2 d c in 
next space, repeat. 

For fringe. — Wrap Shetland floss around a card 
of suitable size six times, cut and with the ends 
held evenly together, draw loop through space on 
end of scarf, then draw ends through loop and pull 
down close. 



Golf Vest 

Materials.— Two hanks of Scotch wool, i roll of braid for 
binding. H of a yard of silk for facing the fronts, lo 
small b'ass buttons, j balls of crochet silk for working, 
and M of a yard of broad crinkle-edge elastic, i long crochet- 
hook about the size of a No. 13 bone knitting-needle, i 
spool of twist. 

Make a ch of 35 sts, turn, and putting the hook 
into the 2d st, put wool over and draw it through 
the St. Keeping the st 011 the hook, continue to 




Golf Vest 



back edges i st every other rib seven times, or 14 
ribs. Make a ch of 12 sts on the back edge and 
take up 10 sts as at the beginning of the work. 
This gives the under-arm extension. Widen every 
rib on the front edge for 18 ribs, crocheting straight 
on the back. Work one rib without widening. Then, 
on the edge of the right side of the vest, after 
crocheting the first 2 sts, make a ch of 2 sts be- 
tween the 2d and 3d sts to make a httle opening 
for the buttonhole. Narrow on the front edge I st 
every 3d rib, and make ch for the buttonhole after 
every 6th rib. Do this for 22 ribs. Now bind off 
21 sts from the under-arm seam, and beginning to 
crochet from the 22d st narrow i on the front every 
3d rib, crochet back to within I st of the back edge 
every rib. Do this for 6 ribs, remembering to make 
the buttonhole where it should come in reference 
to the others. Bind off. This completes the front. 
Take up stitches on the opposite shoulder and 
crochet the other front to correspond. Sew up the 
vest at the under-arm seams. To work the stars 
use knitting silk. On colored or white vest two 
cross-stitches of black and two of yellow make a 
pretty combination. Under the buttonholes place 
a narrow stay of muslin. Underface the fronts 
with bias silk or satin. Work the buttonholes with 
twist. It is well before binding the fronts and 
armholes to overcast the edges with the wool, to pre- 
vent stretching in binding. It is also well to hold the 
edges rather full in binding and to note the meas- 
urements given below. Underface the lower edge 
of the back with a flat elastic band. Finish with 
two rows of small buttons. 

Neck measure, 31 inches; armhole, 17 inches; 
length of front, 7 inches. 



the end of the ch until there are 34 sts on the hook. 
Now put the wool over and draw back through 
one St. Put wool over and draw back through the 
st just formed and the one next on the hook. Con- 
tinue to the end of the row. This makes the regu- 
lar afghan-stitch with which most persons are 
familiar. It will be seen that to make one complete 
rib requires crocheting twice across, so, to simplify 
the directions, we will speak of narrowing and wid- 
ening by ribs rather than rows. 

Having started with 34 sts on the hook and 
crocheting twice across to form one rib, now widen 
every second rib at each end for four times. This 
gives 8 ribs. Work 22 ribs without widening. Now 
widen I st at both ends of rib every 3d rib for four 
times. Crochet 27 ribs straight. 

This brings the work to the shoulder. 

Take one-third of the stitches for one shoulder, 
bind off one-third for the neck, and crochet on the 
next third for the other shoulder. Crochet 8 ribs 
straight, then widen on the front edge every 3d 
rib I st for five times. Now widen both front and 



Lady's Kimono 

Materials. — Ten skeins of white i 
yards of No. 4 ribbon, and a a 

Begin at the neck with a chain of 107 stitches. 
Beginning in the 2d st from the hook, make a single 
crochet in each st of the ch. For the next row ch 
I. turn, and make a s c in each s c of the 1st row, 
taking the st through both sts beneath. For the 3d 
row. ch 2, turn, and make a puff in each s c of 2d 
row. To make the puff', thread over as for d c, take 
a st through the s c, thread over, take another st in 
the same place, thread over and take another st 
in the same place, then draw thread through all 
the sts on the hook and fasten by a s c. For the 
next row, ch i. turn, make a s c between each 2 
puffs, and to widen make 2 s c in every loth space. 
The next row is the same as the 2d. The body of 
the kimono is a repetition of the row of puffs and 
the 2 rows of s c alternating, and widening in the 



first of the two rows of s c. same as in the 4th row. 
Work until there are 18 rows of puiTs. For the ist 
row of the border, ch 4, make a puff between the 2d 
and 3d puffs, ch i, puff in the space between the 
4th and 5th puffs, and finish the row, skipping 2 puffs 
after each i ch. Break the thread. Begin with the 
black at the same corner as the previous row, ch 4, 
puff in each space beneath, break the thread. Make 
another row of white, one of black, and another 
of white same as the last row. The last 3 rows ex- 
tend across the bottom of the kimono. 

The outer border is made separate and sewed 
on, all around the kimono. It is made thus : Chain 
12 sts. Make 2 d c in the 5th from the hook, ch i, 
2 d c in the same place, ch 3, skip 3 sts, fasten in 
the next by s c, skip 2 ch, 2 d c in the next, ch i, 2 
d c in the same place, ch 5, turn, 2 d c between the 
two groups of d c, ch 3, fasten in top of next d c by 
s c; then shell of 2 d c, i ch, 2 d c in the ch I. ch I, 
5 puffs in the ch 5 with i ch 
between, ch i, fasten in the 
top of the last d c of the pre- 
vious row, ch I, turn. * s c in 
the first I ch, I d c and i s c 
in the same place. Repeat 
from * in each I ch between 
the puffs. This finishes one 
scallop. Repeat from the first 
row until the border is long 
enough to extend around the 
kimono, holding it full at the 
four corners. Edge the bor- 
der with the black by making 
chains of 4 sts and fastening 
by s c in the middle and be- 
tween the shells. Make a row 
of holes at the neck through 
which to run the ribbon by 
making d c with 2 ch between 
in every 3d St. Sew the bor- 
der on neatly with the white 
yarn, making full enough at 
the corners. Fasten under the 

arms to form the sleeves, and make bows of the rib- 
bon at the fastenings and larger bow on the top of 
the sleeve. Run the ribbon through the neck for 
the ties. This kimono measures one-half yard from 
the neck to the lower edge. 



Ear of Corn Teapot Holder 

Xot illustrated 

Materials.— One skein of Saxony yarn, % yard of inch ribbon, pile 
green, a small piece of while cashmere, and a small bone hook. 

Chain 50. Jst round — * Make 2 single cro- 
chet in 3d st of ch; remove hook, insert to 



right of stitches, catch yarn and draw up tight, 
make i ch, miss i st and repeat from * twice ; 
miss I st, make 3 double crochet in next st, 
and draw up as directed above (this makes the 
kernels stand up). Repeat from last * to end of ch, 
ch 2 and break yarn. 

2d round — Make first kernel to the right of the 
first one you made, make the ne.xt kernel between 
2d and 3d kernels of first round, make all kernels 
between kernels of last round till you finish the 
round. The first three kernels of every round con- 
sist of 3 s c, the rest have 3 d c. 

jd round — Make first kernel between ist and 2d 
kernel of last round, work as before to end of 
round and then make the last kernel to the left 
of last kernel of last round: you will observe 
that the kernels mismatch in the rows. Repeat 2d 
and 3d rows, till you have the desired size. Ten 
rows makes a good sized holder. 




Lady's Bre.\kfast Kimono 

After the crochet work is done, cut two pieces of 
cashmere (white) the size of the crochet work, al- 
lowing an inch more in length, sew up the sides 
and one end, lay a piece of white wadding on one 
side (make it an inch short), and baste down, 
turn the bag and gather up at lower edge, fit the 
lower edge of corn to this and draw up together. 
Now sew up from the lower edge about an inch, 
overcast the lining to outside on both edges, turn 
lining in at the top and gather tight ; now sew the 
upper edge of corn to the lining to imitate a corn- 
cob as much as possible, cut the ribbon at the ends 
in points, make loops and sew to the upper end of 
ear. 



Brownie Hood 

MiTERiALS. — Four skeins white four-fold zephyr, and 1 of pink. 
Ribbon for ties, and 10 yards baby ribbon for rosettes and to run 
in rows of double crochet. 

A hood made by these directions will fit a child 
from 6 to lo years old according to size of head. 

Chain 59, on which work 28 stars. Chain 3, turn, 
and taking up back st of star work row of d c. 
Conlinue until you have 6 rows of alternate stars 
and d c. 




Brownie Huod 



yth roiv — Twenty-seven stars, widen i. I star. 

S//t row.' — Double crochet without widening. 

()th rozv — Stars without widening. 

10th rozi' — Double crochet without widening. 

nth row — Twenty-eight stars, widen i. i star. 

12th row — Double crochet without widening. 

i^th roiv — Widen at beginning i star, 29 stars, 
widen I, I star. 

14//1 rozv — Double crochet without widening. 

15/fe roTf— Stars, widening at the beginning and 
before making last star. 

l6//i row — Double crochet without widening. 



17;/! row — Stars; work to end of row, leaving 
off last 3 stars. Break wool. 

i8//t row — Leave off 3 stars, tie in wool, and 
make d c to end of row. 

19//; row — Widen at beginning. Leave off 3 stars 
(or rather their equivalent — 6 d c). 

20th rozv — Leave off 4 stars, and d c to end of 
row. 

2ist rozi' — Sixteen stars. 

22d rozv — Skip 8 stars and d c over remaining 8. 

231^ rozv — Widen i star and make 3 stars. 

This is for one side and the edge at starting point 

is the top edge ; the other side is worked the same 

only reversing terms, the edge where rows are 

ended being the top edge, thus : 

Chain 59, on which work 28 stars. Chain 3, turn 
and work row of d c. Work 6 rows as above. 
yth row — One star, widen I, 27 stars. 
8/A row — Double crochet without widening. 
()th rozv — Stars without widening. 
10.'/; rozv — Double crochet without widening. 
ii//i vozv — One star, widen i, 28 stars. 
12th rozv — Double crochet without widening. 
13//1 rozv — One star, widen i, 29 stars; widen at 
end of row. 

14//1 rozv — Double crochet without widening. 
15//1 rozv — One star, widen i, work to end of row, 
widen I. 

16//; rozv — l)nul)Ic crochet without widening. 
17//1 rozv — Skip 3 stars and work to end of row, 
ch 3, turn. 

18//1 row — Work d c to end of row, leaving off 
3 stars. Break wool. 

19//1 rozv — Skip 3 stars and work to end of row, 
widening i. 

20//; rozi — Double crochet to end of row, leav- 
ing off 4 stars. 

2ist rozv — Sixteen stars, leaving off 6. 
22d rozv — Double crochet over 8 stars, leaving 8 
at end. 

2T,d rozv — Three stars, leaving off 5 and widening 
at end. 

Whip top edges of hood together and stitch up 
back. 

The rever is made as follows: Chain 91, on 
which work 44 stars, ch 3, turn. 

2d row — Double crochet. 3^ rote— Stars. 4</t 
,-ow— Double crochet. 5//; ro-;'— Stars. Around 
one side and both ends of this strip, and around the 
outside edge of entire hood, crochet a frill made 
in three rows thus : 
26 



1st row — Pink shells made by working 2 d c, ch 
2, 2 d c in the same stitch, skipping 2 stars between 
shells and working i ch between. 

2d rozv — Of the cream wool. Five d c in shell 
with I ch between each, and catch down between 
by s c. 

3d row — With the pink wool. Chain 3, catch 
by s c between each d c in top of shell, and by s c 
without chain between each shell. 

Run baby ribbon through rows of d c in both 
hood and rcver, and finish with rosettes of the 
same ribbon. 

Baby's Carriage Afghan 

Materials. — Fifteen skeins of cream-white Germantown, i !4 
yards of white eiderdown, 5 yards narrow ribbon, and a 
medium-sized bone hook. 

The body of the afghan is formed of S stripes 
going lengthwise, but all joined in the making. 
Three of the stripes are made of star stitch and 
d c, and 2 rows are of popcorn stitch. 

Work a ch about l 1-4 yards long. On the ch 
work 17s d c for the first row. Skip a st of ch 




Baby's Carriage Afghan 

about every 6th d c to keep the edge from drawing. 
Turn and work a row of stars. Place a star over 
every 2 d c. Turn and work a row of d c into the 
stars, working 2 d c over each star, i d c in the 
eye of star and i d c in stitch between the eyes. 
Alternate these 2 rows until there are 6 rows of 
stars and 7 rows of d c. This forms the first stripe. 
To make the popcorn stripe, work a s c over each of 
the first 2 d c, * ch 4, s c in each of next 3 d c, and 



repeat from * to end of the row. Take the s c 
through both the back and front st beneath. Turn 
and work the next row of s c. dropping out the ch 
4 which forms the raised appearance. Alternate 
these 2 rows until there are 1 1 rows with the raised 
parts and end with a row of d c. This finishes the 
popcorn stripe. Work another stripe like the first 
one, then another popcorn stripe, then another like 
the first, as seen in the illustration. 

Work a row of d c with ch 2 between all around 
the afghan through which to run the ribbon. The 
border consists of 4 rows. 

1st row — Shell of 2 d c, ch 2, 2 d c in every al- 
ternate ch 2 of previous row. 

2d rozv — Shell of 3 d c. ch 2. 3 d c in every shell 
of previous row. 

3rf rozv — Same as 2d row. For the last row, ch 
3, s c in ch 2 of the shell, ch 5 and s c in same place, 
ch 6 and s c in same place, ch 5 and s c in same 
place — this forms 3 picots in the ch 2; ch 3, s c 
between the shells, ch 3 and s c in the ch 2 of next 
shell. Repeat to end of the row. 

Cut the eiderdown to fit the afghan, letting the 
edges come to the row for the ribbon. With the 
wool work a row of d c with 2 ch between all 
around the lining, catching the d c into the edge of 
the eiderdown. Place the afghan and lining with 
the wrong sides together. Lace the ribbon through 
the lining and outside, thus fastening them together 
In this wav they can easily be taken apart to be 
cleansed. This afghan is all white, but if a color 
is desired it looks very pretty to work the plain 
rows in the popcorn stripe either of pink or blue and 
then work the last row of the border of the same 
color. 

Baby's Bib 

MATERtAis. — Dark cream silk, medium steel croclict-hook. 

Work 60 loose ch. 

ist rozv — One d c in third ch. i d c in following 
ch. 




2d row — Single crochet across, taking up back 
of St to make ridge. Skip I st in centre of every 
other row in the entire bib. Work l st less at the 
beginning of each of the first i6 rows, or one for 
each of 8 ridges. Then increase I at the beginning 
of next 8 rows or 4 ridges, tlien i at beginning and 
end of each remaining rows, or 2 for each ridge. 
There should be 52 sts in last row. Press with hot 
iron. Chain 74 and fasten to lower end of bib 
for armhole. 

1st roiv — Chain 5 * i d c in second ch, i ch * i d 
c in second ch, repeat across chain and end of bib; 
join to first 5 ch. 

2d rozv — Chain 4, shell of 3 roll st — silk over 
12 times in first d c of last row, i d c in next d c. 
shell in next d c, repeat all around, clip silk; 
make the other arm piece the same way. 

Finish the top of bib same as arm, working d c 
on wrong side of work and roll st always on right 
side; finish the bottom the same also, then work 
the extra rows like this : 3 ch on wrong side, i 
s c between first 2 roll sts of shell, 3 ch, i s c be- 
tween next 2 roll sts, 4 ch, i s c between first 2 
roll sts of next shell ; repeat. 

Last rozv — Shell of 4 roll sts in loop on top of 
shell, shell of 4 roll sts on ne.xt shell ; repeat across 
Finish with 3 ch, i d c, 3 ch, i d c. all around bib 
and armhole. 

Tie the sleeve pieces together in back with cream 
taffeta or satin ribbon about 1-2 inch wide. 



Infant's Band 

of two-fold white Saxony and 



fine 



Begin at the end with a chain of 42 stitches worked 
loosely. 

Turn and work a s c in each chain stitch. * Turn, 
ch I, and work s c in each s c of the first row, taking 
up the back loops of the stitches. Turn, ch i, s c in 
each s c, taking stitch through both front and back 




Infant's Band 

stitches beneath. Repeat from the * alternating the 
2 rows until 27 ridges are made. 

In next row, work 32 s c, leaving 10 at the end. 
Turn and work back. 

In next row, make 32 s c and 2 s c of the 10 which 



were skipped. In the next ridge take up 2 of the 
skipped ones, in next ridge 3, and in the next 2, 
thus making same number of stitches as in begin- 
ning. This forms a small dart at the lower edge. 
Work four ridges plain. 

To form the next dart, work to within 2 s c of the 
lower edge and back, then to within 3 of end of pre- 
vious ridge, then to within 2 of end, then to within 3, 
thus dropping 10 s c. same as in the first dart. In the 
next ridge work to the lower edge, taking up 42 s c. 
Work 2y ridges to correspond with the first side. 

Finish the band with a scallop of ( I ch, 4 d c, I ch) 
fastened by s c. 

This band measures 6 inches in width and 20 in 
length. Use a soft quality of Saxony so it will not 
irritate, and a fine hook to make the work rather 
firm. 

Baby's Bootees 

M.\TERiALS. — Tw'o-fold Saxony or zephyr: i skein of the former 
or .' of the latter. Silk for edge and ribbon for ties. 

The features of this bootee are its toe and heel. 
Commence at toe with chain 19, using first three 
stitches to start the star, around which work 8 
stars, widen (w) i star, 8 stars, w i ; fasten by 
slip stitch in top of ist star. Chain 3 to start 
star of next row, 8 stars, w I, I star, w i, 8 stars. 




Baby's Bootee 

w I, I star, w I, catch as before by si st in top of 
1st star. Chain 3, w I star at each end of next 
2 rows, after which work 7 rows without widen- 
ing; fasten and clip wool. Skip the ist 9 stars 
and tie wool in eye of next star, ch 3, 17 stars, clip 
wool. This leaves the 9 stars. Tie wool at begin- 
ning, ch 3 and repeat as before until you have 6 



rows of 17 stars each; then work 4 rows of 7 stars 
each, which forms the heel. Sew heel together across 
bottom and up side. This forms the foot of bootee. 

Crochet a row of double knot stitch of the silk 
to run ribbon through. There should be 25 or 26 
groups. 

After the row of knot st clip silk and tie woo! 
in top of first loop and work 3 ch. Draw wool 
through each of 2 ch st, making 3 ch sts on hook; 
then tor 4th and 5th sts of star draw wool through 
long chain of loop on either side of centre short 
chain. 

2d row — Widen one star at centre back. 

3d row — Plain. 

4</^ row — Knot stitch. 

5</t row — Star stitch. Alternate knot stitch and 
star stitch until you have three clusters of same, 
widening one star in centre back every row of 
stars; then two rows of knot stitch and two of star 
stitch. The sock is finished with a shell edge of 
wool and a final edge of chain stitch of the silk. 



Baby's Bonnet 



Materials. — One sm 


all skein of white Germantown, 14 yard 


white China silk, 


white swan's-down of sufficient length to 


go around hood. 


^4 yard white ribbon about i inch wide, 


and very fine bon 


e crochet-hook. 



Chain 4, join, drawing up firmly to prevent open 
centre. Within this work 8 stars, thus : Chain 2, 
wool over, draw up loop from centre in stitch at 
base of chain just made, draw up a loop from hole 
in centre, wool over and draw through all, ch i. In- 
sert hook in eye of star just formed by ch and draw 
up a loop, I loop in back of last star, i loop in centre 
(4 on hook), wool over and draw through all, ch 
I and so on until there are 8 stars. Join last star 
to first by a slip-stitch into the top horizontal stitch 
of first star. Chain 2, I loop in ist ch, i loop in 
top horizontal stitch of star underneath, wool over, 
draw through all, ch i, i loop in eye just formed, 
I in back of star just made, i in place where last 
stitch (loop) of last star was taken, and i in next 
eye, wool over, ch l. Continue thus. If the work 
begins to get too full, skip an eye or bar as may be 
necessary to keep work flat. Work 4 rows of stars. 
If a larger hood is desired, go around once or 
twice more. This size is for a first hood. 

The Front. — Which is worked back and forth. — 
See diagram. Chain. On this work 19 stars thus: 
Wool over, pick up loops in 2 chains, wool over, draw 
through, ch I, I loop in eye just formed, I in back of 
star just formed, i in ch where last loop of last star 
and I in ne.xt ch, (if ch is not very loose it is 
better to skip one ch or the foundation will be apt 
to draw in), wool over, draw through all, ch I. 
Have 19 stars. Chain 4, turn. In beginning 2d 
row, work one star extra out on this chain, thus : 



Wool over, draw up loops in two chains farthest 
from hook, wool over, through all, chain i, loop in 
eye of star just made, loop in back of same star, I 
in same space as last of preceding star, and one 
in next horizontal (skip the eye), 4 on hook, wool 
over, draw through, ch i, continue. Keep front of 




19 itars w 
A3 Stirs- 



i3 Stirs- 
(9 Sti-rs 



Baby's Bonnet. (See Diagram) 

hood straight ; widen on back in same way until 
there are 2^ stars. By being careful to catch up 
the loop on the edge i star can be made extra each 
row; 19 stars in ist row, 20 in ne.xt, 21 in next, and 
so on to 23. Then narrow each row in back till 19 
is reached. Narrow by dropping off one star each 
row at back edge, working star over 2d star from 
edge. This makes 9 rows. Then work across, 
back and forth with 19 stars until you have about 
22 rows of stars, counting from foundation cham. 
This forms one-half of bonnet. Continue working 
until you have 22 rows of 19 stars. Widen at 
back edge one star each row until there are 23 
stars, then narrow one each row until there are 
only 19. Sew up the back and full in to crown. 
Line with silk and finish with swan's-down and 
ribbon. There are 38 rows in all in front of bonnet. 

Baby's Cap 

This beautiful little cap is for a two-year-old 
child. The fan-like designs are made m rows and 
then crocheted together at the picots. On top of the 
head the first two rows divide so that the fans fall 
down on the sides. The ist row has 7 fans on each 
side; the 2d row has 6 fans. On top where the fans 
divide, in the 2d row. are joined a row of 7 fans 
which run down over the middle of head but not 
quite to the neck; the last of the seven should be 
somewhat smaller to make a nicer shape. To fill 



in the sides of the cap, the 3d row has 2 fans dividing 
with 3 more running downward to make it even with 
2d row ; the 4th row has the ist fan standing side wise 
joined to the two dividing ones in the 3d row, this 




Bauy's Cap 

is to shape tlie liack; to this are added 3 fans which 
are to be even with the 2d and 3d rows. On the 
bottom join a row of 4 fans, beginning from the 2d 
row and going back to nape of neck. The joining is 
all done by two chains and doubles in the picots from 
one row to the other. Detailed instructions would 
be too confusing for making the joinings, but a little 
ingenuity and fitting on a child's head will be of 
great assistance. 

Use mercerized cotton or crochet silk, and start 
with the fan in the centre of the ring. Chain 7, and 
in the 1st ch work 6 roll stitches, over 15 times. 

Detail of roll-stilch. — \\'ind the thread 15 times 
over the hook, bring up loop through ist ch, thread 
over the hook and draw through the coil on the hook, 
thread over hook and draw through the one loop 
on the hook. Repeat this for each stitch until you 
have six. Chain 6 and fasten down into the ist ch 
also ; this makes a shell or fan. To wind a heavy 
ring around this fan, lay the fan with the hook in 
its loop on the forefinger of left hand, hold it down 
with the thumb, and with the thread wind 10 times 
over three fingers. Take the hook out of the loop 
and put it in again from the opposite direction, 
slip off the ring carefully, and with the hook pass 
over into tlie eye of the fan (the eye is where the 
roll sts were worked in), and now work 3 s c into the 
eye of the fan and over the ring at the same time 
to fasten the windovers. Next work up the side 
on ring witli u ^ c. now a tr under the ch of fan 
(do the tr from tlie back) now a p of 5 ch. fasten 



the p on top of tr, 5 s c under the ring (a tr on 
fan, a p of 5 ch), repeat until there are 9 tr and 9 
p. Between the first and last two rolls make 2 tr 
and one between the others; finish with 12 s c. 

If they are the same size as the design this fills 
the ring. They need not necessarily be the same 
size, so long as you make an odd number of p. At 
the end of 12 s c fasten down with a si st, and 
without cutting thread the next fan in the row can 
be made. Chain 10 and fasten around the centre tr 
on the wrong side, 7 more and fasten on the centre 
p, which p is now the foundation from which the 
next fan is made, using the hole in the picot for 
putting in the roll sts. Where the fans are to divide 
the fan is made exactly opposite. 

If desired a China silk lining can be made for the 
cap. It is trimmed with big chiffon rosettes where 
the ties are fastened. 

Baby's Cap. Daisy Design 

Chain 8, join to form ring. 

1st round. — Chain I, s c into ring 24 times; join 
into 1st s c. 

_'(/ round. — Chain 3 ; roll stitch into each stitch of 
preceding round. Make rolls by throwing thread 
over needle 20 times, fasten in s c of ist round, and 
drawing off all at once; ch I. 




Baby's Cap. Daisy Design 



?(/ round. — Chain 3. Cover this chain with 12 s c, 
and fasten into ist space of preceding round; s c 
into next space between rolls, ch 5, fasten to cov- 
ered ch, turn and fill cli. Repeat around cap. 

4th round. — Chain 3, fasten between 2 eyelets of 
3d round with 1 c. ch 3, fasten in top of 1 c, ch 3, 
fasten in same place, ch 3, fasten in same place, 



ch 3, fasten in top of next eyelet. This makes clover 
leaf. Work them all around cap. 

jth round. — Chain 5, fasten in top of leaf, ch 5, 
fasten in top of next leaf, etc. 

6th round. — Work 3 rolls of 20 stitches on ch be- 
tween each leaf around cap. 

yth round. — Another round of leaves, fastening 
between each roll. 

8th round. — Repeat 5th round. 

ptii round. — Twenty daisies, made separately, 
sewed together, and then sewed around cap. Keep 
work tight enough to shape cap. 

loth round. — Fasten on side of daisy, ch 3, skip 2 
rolls and fasten in same daisy, ch 5, fasten on side 
of next daisy, ch 3, skip 2 rolls, fasten in same daisy 
again. 

Repeat around cap. 

nth round. — Clover leaves all around cap. 2 to 
each daisy, i in each place where ch is joined to 
daisy. 

I2th round. — Repeat 5th round. This completes 
crown. 

l^th row. — Seventeen daisies, i to every 2 clover 
leaves, except 9th which has 3 clover leaves. 

Leave off 8 clover leaves to form back. 

14th row. — Repeat 5th round. 7 st to each chain, 
fastening in top of each daisy. 

I^th row. — Clover leaves across front, I to each 
daisy. 

l6th roii'.- — Repeat 5th round. 6 st to each ch. 

lyth row.- — Repeat 13th row. 

i8th roil'. — Repeat 14th row. 

ipth roiv. — Repeat 15th row. 

20th rozv. — Repeat i6th row. 

2ist ro'du. — Daisies all around, 17 for front, 13 
for back. 

To make daisies. — Chain 6. fasten to form ring. 
Chain 2. Make 12 rolls of 12 threads each, fasten 
12th roll to 1st, cut thread and fasten. Sew daisies 
together, beginning where thread hangs loose, so 
that the loose end may be hidden, and fasten 2 rolls 
in one to 2 in the other. Have thread long enough 
to sew together I round of daisies. In sewing 
daisies to cap, do not break thread, but fasten in ch 
of last row. 



Baby's Cap 



Matekials. — Thfi 



spools 



diet silk, hook to correspond. 



Chain 6, join to form ring. 

1st round. — Chain 2. d c into ring 28 times. 

2d round. — Make one roll in top of each st of ist 
round. 

Make roll by throwing thread over hook 20 
times, and taking all off at once. 

jrf round. — Chain 3. d c between first 2 rolls, 
ch 3, s c into top of last st, repeat until there are 
three picots, ch 3, s c between next 2 rolls. This 
makes clover leaf. Work them all around. 

4th round. — Chain 5, fasten in top of first clover 



leaf, ch 7, fasten in top of next leaf, ch 7, fasten in 
next, etc. 

§th round. — Make 5 roll stitches in each space of 
4th round. 

6th round. — Repeat 3d round. 

ph round. — Chain 5 between each leaf unless cap 
cups too much, when 6 or 7 should be made. 

8th round. — Repeat 5th round, 3 rolls to each 
space. 

gth round. — Repeat 3d round, I leaf to 2 rolls, then 
I to 4. alternate thus around cap. 

lOth round. — Repeat 7th round. 

nth round. — Repeat 8th round. 

I2th round. — Repeat 9th round, I leaf to every 4 
oils. 

l^th round. — Repeat 12th round, I leaf between 
each one of 12th round. 




Baby's Cap 

14th round. — Chain 3, s c in top of leaf of 13th 
round, ch 3, d c in top of leaf of 12th round, etc. 
This completes crown. 

i^th row. — Repeat 8th round, 2 rolls to each 
space. Leave off 6 leaves to form back. Clip silk. 

l6th row. — Fasten in first leaf of 15th row and 
repeat 6th round. 

////; roiv. — Chain 4 between each leaf. 

i8tli row. — Repeat 15th row. Clip silk. 

iQtIi rozi.'. — Repeat i6th row, fastening in first leaf 
of 1 8th row. 

20th row. — Repeat 17th row. 

2lst rov.'. — Shell of 10 rolls at corner, fasten 
in 2d leaf of front, shell of 7 rolls in next leaf and 
fasten in next, etc. If there are too many leaves, 



skip 2 in place of I at intervals. There should be 
about 17 shells across front, and six across back. 

22d rozv. — Chain 3, s c in space between first 2 
stitches of first shell, ch 3, s c between next 2 sts, etc., 
entirely around cap. 

This cap will fit a child, 2 or even 3 years old. If 
a smaller one is desired make 24 d c in 1st round. 

Baby's Hood 

This hood requires i skein of Shetland floss. 

Chain 8, join. 

1st row. — Chain 3, s c in st, * ch 3. s c in next * 
7 times, making 8 loops. 

2d row. — * Single crochet in ist st of ch. 3 s c in 
next, I s c in next, miss s c. * 8 times: join by si st, 
turn. 

?(/ roiv. — Miss I St. * I s c in next, 3 s c in next. I 
in next, miss 2; * repeat around, si st at end of row, 
then turn. 

4th rozv. — Like 31I, always taking back loop of st. 

^th row. — Single crochet in each st, making 3 s c 
in I at point. 

6th rozv. — Three s c in each point, missing 2 s c 
between points. 

/th rozv. — Like 5th. 

8th, gth rozvs. — Like 6th. Now work 8 rounds 
plain bean st. (See directions for bean stitch, page 
44-) 




Hood 



18th rozv. — Work bean st, missing 
of row. Turn. 

jQth row. — Treble crochet in bean, 
next bean, * repeat around face. 



20th rozv. — A bean in each tr c. 

2ist, 22d, 2jd, 24th rozvs. — Plain bean st, using 
pink, for 23d row. 

25th rozv. — All the way around work loops, s c 
in st, ch 3, miss I, s c in next. 

Trim with ribbon as shown in cut. 

Baby's Shawl 



The centre is in star stitch. Chain 150 on which 
work a row of 70 stars and clip wool. 




8 beans at end 
* ch I, tr c in 



Baby's Shawl 



2d rozv — Work a star over each one of the first 
row. Break the wool at the end of each row. 
To keep the sides straight, in every alternate row 
begin by placing a star over the first two stars, 
and working an e.xtra star at the end of the row. 
This keeps the same number of stars. Work un- 
til the shawl is square. 

The border is in five rows. 

1st rozv — Double crochet with 2 ch between, mak- 
ing holes for ihe rilibon. 

2d rozv — Wool over the needle twice, take a st in 
the top of a d c. wool over, draw wool through 2 sts 
on the hook, wool over, take a st in the next d c, 
crochet all the sts on the hook ofif two at a time, 
ch 2, d c in the st at the crossing of the treble. 
The next cross tr begins in the same d c as the pre- 
ceding tr ends. Make the work full at the corners 
so it will lie flat. 

3^ rozv — Shell of 2 d c, 2 ch, 2 d c in the st be- 
tween 2 tr, and fasten by s c in the st between the 
ne.xt 2 tr. 

4//; rozv — Work the same shell in a shell, with a 
d c in the s c between. 



r,th roic — In each shell of the 4th row make 3 
d c, 3 picots by chaining five for each p and 
fastening back into the top of the 3d d c, 3 d c, 
s c in the d c between the shells. 

Run the ribbon through the open spaces of the 
first row, and make a bow at each corner. 

Baby's Bootees 

This requires a little more than one skein of Shet- 
land floss. (See directions for bean stitch, page 44.) 

Chain 34, join. Work 14 rounds of bean st, at end 
of each round work a s c in first bean of round, then 
turn. Work 2d round with pink, 

I^th round. — Double crochet in bean, * ch i, d c 
in next bean *. Repeat. 

l6th round. — A bean in each d c. 

ijth round. — A s c in each st, working 3 s c in 8th 
and I2th beans. Turn. 

l8th round. — Single crochet in s c, working 3 s c 
in I between widening*. Turn, .-\lways take back 
loop of St. 

ipth round. — In this round widen by making 2 s c 
in every alternate st in space between widenings of 
17th round. 

20th, 2ist rounds. — Single crochet in each s c. 

22d round. — Increase 6 sts around toe. 

2^d, 24th, 2^th, 26th rounds. — Like 20th round. 

Around top work loops, as before. 




Baby's Bootee 

To make sole. — Chain 6, work 5 rows of s c, wid- 
ening I st at end of each row by putting 2 s c in 
last St. Work 4 rows plain, then 2 rows, narrowing 
at end of each by taking 2 sts together. 



Two rows plain. Four rows, widening I st at end 
of each. 

Two rows plain. Six rows, narrowing i st at end 
of each. One row plain. 

With needle and wool sew in sole. Run ribbon 
around ankle. 

Baby's Petticoat 

The model was in cream Saxony with a tiny blue 
stripe, and blue edge. Work an easy chain about 
24 inches long, it must be full long to fit on the 
bodice. 



■i 



V. 4 






r- k\, *s- 












iC 




Baby's Petticuat 



1st roz<.' ■ — Double crochet. 

2d rozi' — Three ch to stand for first stitch, I d c 
in next * i ch, miss a st, I d c in next ; repeat from 
•* and put an extra d c at the end to strengthen the 
edge. 

3d roiv — Three ch to begin, I d c in everv st, 
working into ch as if it was a d c. 

4//z roiu — Three ch to begin, d c in every st. 

5//1. roiv — Like 4th. 

6th rozv — Increase by putting 2 sts in every loth 

St. 

7//1, 8//; and gth roii'i — Plain (that is, without in- 
crease). 

loth rozv — Increase by putting 2 sts in every nth 

St. 

nth, 12//; and i^lli rozvs — Plain. 

This is far enough for a placket to suit some; 
if it is required longer increase in every 12th st, 
then work one, two or three plain rows, as wished. 
As soon as the placket is long enough unite in a 
round and work the star stitch. 



Chain 3, work a row of stars and join at end 
of row by slipping the hook through the top of 
the first star of row, before finishing the final 
ch, then finish the ch in the usual way. Any way 
will do, but this is a trifle snugger than some ways. 

The 2d and 3d rows are like the 1st. 

4tli round — Like 2d except that you increase 
every 12th star, putting three stars where there 
were but two in the previous row. This is man- 
aged by working the star sts a little closer and 
seeing that the last stitch of the last of the increase 
stars is in the eye of the last of two stars be- 
low. After this row you probably will not 
need to increase again, but if you feel it would be 
best, it is done as shown. Work 2 rows of blue 
when the petticoat is about 9 or 9 1-2 inches deep, 
and then work on till the petticoat is a trifle shorter 
than you wish it to be (about 10 1-2 inches for a 
baby up to a year), when you work a row of close 
edge around, working in blue. 

Edge. — Work a d c in the eye of a star; * work 
2 d c in the next eye of a star, 3 ch, I s c in the 
top of the last d c, l more d c in the same eye (3 
d c in all, with a picot on top of 2d stitch), I s c 
in the eye of the next star, and repeat from * all 
around. Crochet a border around the placket hole, 
run in ends, and sew the petticoat to a bodice. 

This same petticoat, worked in four-fold zephyr 
or good Germantown, made a trifle longer and tied 
round the waist loosely with a ribbon, was used 
with excellent results by a mother for putting on 
the baby when going out in the baby-buggy to 
keep the lower part of the body warm. It was an 
easy matter to slip it on and off under its frock. 



Baby's Bed Socks 



Materials. — One skc 



of wliite ZL-i.li; 



skein of pink 



To begin the upper part make a chain of 68 sts. 

1st roiv. — Always skip the first st, take i st up from 
each of the next 39 ch, leaving all on hook ; going 
back chain off 12. 

2d row. — Take 11 sts up from the last 11 of the 
12 sts chained off in the former row and 4 sts from 
the chain, then chain off 20 going back and crochet 
5th and 6th and also 15th and i6th sts together. 

J J rov!. — Take up 21 sts and chain off 26 going 
back, narrow on each side of the 8 middle sts. 

4th and 5th rows. — Same as 3d row, going for- 
ward take up 4 sts from the chain, going back chain 
off 4 more at the other end. 

6th to l6th roivs. — Proceed as before, but in the 
9th row chain 3d and 4th and also 3d and 4tli to the 
last together as l, and from 13th to i6th rows work 
each half separately. 

Next work a row at the top consisting of i ch in 
every st in the former row, turn the work around. 
ch 3 and work a row of d c, I in each ch, at the end 



turn the work again and work 3 ch, go back with a 
row of d c as before. 

To make the turn-over, work on the wrong side 
only, breaking the wool at the ends. 




Baby's Bed Sock 



1st row. — Fasten the white zephyr and ch 3, * 
take I stitch up from the next and another from 
the one following and draw wool through these 
two, then draw it through the 2 sts on the hook and 
ch I, repeat from *. 

2d to ^th rows. — As ist row, the 2d and 4th rows 
to be worked with colored wool. Work scallops 
around the edge as follows: ch 5, i ch in the first 
one, draw wool through the 2 sts on hook and 
work I ch into every other one in the former row. 

Work a star with colored wool on the front of the 
shoe. Then make a chain string for tying the shoe, 
draw it through the first row of d c at the top of the 
shoe. Trim the ends of this chain with little balls 
made of both colors of the wool. 

Tlie sole is composed of 21 rows. Begin with 8 
ch and add one st on each side in the second row. 
In the 9th row narrow one on each side and in the 
]2th row again add one. In the 20th row narrow 
I to shape the toe. ,\t last work a row of ch around 
the sole ; then take the colored wool and connect the 
upper part and tlie sole with ch sts worked oa the 
right side. 

Baby's Socks 

These pretty little socks are made with two 
colors of fine Saxony wool. Pink and white are the 
colors used for the mode! ; pink for the slipper part, 
and white tor the instep and leg. A scallop of pink, 
also, finishes the top. 

Begin at the ankle with the white, make a ch of 
40 sts and join in a ring to first st, put the hook 
through the 2d st of ch, wool over and draw it 
through; keep this st on the hook and take up 10 
more sts in the same way. There will now be 12 
sts on the hook, which are to be worked off 2 at a 
time, by putting the wool over the hook and 
drawing it through 2 sts, wool over and draw 
it through 2 more, repeat until all are worked off. 



Then insert the Iiook under the first little perpen- 
dicular bar made in the previous row, wool over 
the hook, draw it through, pick up the 2d little bar, 
wool over and draw it through as before ; so con- 
tinue until there are again 12 sts on the hook, which 
work off, 2 at a time, as in first row. 

Make 12 rows of these little squares for the instep. 




Baby's Sock 

break off the wool, and begin at the back with pink 
wool. Make a d c in each st all around the ankle 
and instep, widening by putting in an extra d c at 
each corner of the toe. The next row is made like 
the last. 

Now make two rows of d c without widening. 
Then two rows more which are to be narrowed by 
missing a st at each corner of the toe and in the 
middle of the back. Turn the slipper wrong side out, 
and crochet the edges together along the bottom of 
the foot, with s c. 

For the straps across the instep, with the pink wool 
make a ch of 9 sts, make a d c in the fourth st from 
the hook, a d c in each of the 5 remaining ch, tlien, 
beginning on the right-hand side, make a d c in 
each d c around the ankle, leaving the white ch on 
the inside: make another ch of q sts at the other side 
of slipper and work back on it with d c, break off 
the wool and fasten the ends on the inside. Make 
a row of scallops around the top of slipper. 

Now, with the white wool, make a d c in each 
of the little white loops of the foundation ch. 
Make 2 more rows of d c around the leg. Then 
make a puff st in every other d c all around. 
Puff st is made as follows : wool over the hook, 
insert hook in the work, wool over and draw it 
through, draw the st out J^ inch long, repeat twice, 
when there will be 7 long sts on the hook, wool 
over and draw it through all 7 sts at once, wool 
over, draw it through the I st. For the 5th row 
make a d c in each ch on top of the row of puff sts. 
Make i more row of d c, then a row of puffs, 2 rows 



of d c, a third row of puffs, and finish with a row 
of scallops in the pink wool. 

Fasten the straps across the instep with a cord 
and tassels made of the pink wool, or with a nar- 
row pink ribbon. 

Baby's Socks 

Materi.m,s.— .\ full half-ounce of cream and a full half-ounce 
of baby pink Saxonv; a No. 14 bone hook, or a hook which will 
make a stitch about 1-7 of an inch long, and a "short" quar- 
ter of an inch deep. 

Use cream wool and make 21 easy chain. Turn, 
miss I ch, work a d c in each of the remaining 20 
ch. 

2d row. — One ch to turn, i d c in the back loop 
of each of the 20 sts. 

Repeat the second row till 12 rows are done; the 
work will be in ridges. 

Xow make 15 easy ch, miss i and work 34 sts. 

2d row. — Make i ch to turn, and work 34 sts. 
Keep up the ridges throughout. 

Repeat the 2d row till you have 12 long rows. 

Xow break off the wool and then work the second 
side of the ankle like the first on 20 sts. When the 
12 rows are done, always keeping up the ridge 
character, break off the wool, leaving an end, and 
sew the two sides of the back together. 

N01C make the foot. — Use the pink wool; make a 
d c in the seam, make 14 d c along six ridges, 14 d c 
along the instep, I d c in the corner, 5 on the 
ridges across the toe; I in the next corner, 14 on 
the second side of instep and 14 along ridges at the 
bottom of the le.T:, alto'jether 64 sts. Join to the first 
stitch and work three more rounds, joining each 
round as completed on 64 sts. 

$th round. — One ch to begin, work 28 d c down one 
side, take 2 d c together and work I over it. work the 
3 in the middle of the toe, take 2 together, and work 
the remaining 28 and join. This decreases 2 sts. 

6th round. — Plain, without decrease. 




Baby's Sock 



jth round. — Plain, till you come to within 2 sts of 
the centre 3, take those 2 together, work the centre 3 
as usual, then decrease again ; finish the round and 
join on the centre st, which was made over the sew- 



ing up the back. There should be 60 sts, including 
the one made at the back, on which you do the join- 
ing of the round. 

8th round.— Make 2 ch, 3 d c, decrease, then 
work around till 5 sts are left ; decrease ; work the 
3 sts and join to the 2 ch. (If you find that I ch 
makes a better joining st in your style of work, 
only make i ch ). 

pth roxind. — Make the ch, 2 d c, decrease, i st 
in each st till within 2 of the centre 3 at toe, decrease, 
work the centre 3, and work the other half of the 
round to match that first done, join as usual. 

loth round. — Two ch, I d c, decrease, work a d c 
in every st till there is only i st unworked between 
the worked side and the central 3 at the toe; take the 
unworked st and one of the central 3 together, work 
the middle st of the central 3, then narrow by taking 
2 together ; work down the side, till there are only 3 
sts left. Take 2 together, work the last st in the 
ordinary way and join to the first stitch of the round, 
which is the small crochet chain made at beginning. 
Join neatly up the middle of the sole without draw- 
ing the sts tight. 

Edge Round Top of Leg. — Use pink wool, and 
holding the wrong side of the sock toward you, 
make a d c in the seam at the back ; * then make 2 
ch, 5 tr, in the next depression between ridges, 2 ch, 
I d c in the next depressed ridge, and repeat from *. 
This is the style of work, but get 8 scallops in the 
round. 

2rf round of top. — Still use pink wool and make a 
d c in the back loop of the first tr of the first group; 
one d c in back of next st. * 3 ch, i d c in next st : 
repeat from * once, then make a d c on the last tr in 
the group. 

Edge each scallop the same way. Then tack the 
scallops down lightly and loosely all round. 

For Strap. — Still use the pink wool, make 3 ch. 

1st row. — Miss i ch, make a d c in eacli of the two 
remaining sts. 

2d row. — One ch to turn, I d c in the back loop 
of each st. 

Repeat the 2d row till 38 or 40 rows are done, or 
until the strap will go comfortably round the ankle. 
Then leave a pretty long end of wool, and crochet 
a tiny chain for a buttonhole, fastening the end of 
the chain neatly to the strap. 

Turn in the other end neatly or crochet a tiny bit 
to strengthen where the button is sewn on. but be 
sure not to make it clumsy. There may be 3 sts in 
width in this strap. Of course in this case make 4 
ch to begin. 



Baby's Bath Robe 



Ger. 



at the neck, and also the number of stitches in the 
first row. 

Begin at the neck with a chain of 70 stitches of 
the white Germantown, turn and work a half- 
double in each st of the ch. To make a half-double 
throw wool over hook, take up a st, then draw 
wool through 3 sts on the hook. 

2d roii' — Chain 3, take 2 sts in the 3 ch, I in 
top of last h d c and i in each of the ne.xt 2 sts, 
making 5 on the hook for the first star. For the 
second star take a st in side of the star, i in h d c 
below and in each of next 2 sts. Work 11 stars, 
widen, 14 stars, widen, 11 stars. 

3d row — Turn and work a h d c in the eye of 
each star and in the 2 sts at the top of each. 




This robe is large enough for a baby six months 
old. If a larger or smaller robe is desired, in- 
crease or decrease the number of stitches to begin 



Baby's Bath Robe 



To widen this row work 2 h d c in each side of 
the widened star of the previous row. 

4th ro'LV — Eleven stars, widen. 2 stars, widen, 7 
stars, widen, 7 stars, widen, 2 stars, widen, 11 stars. 

5//1 roii' — Same as 3d row. 

6th row — Eleven stars, widen, 3 stars, widen, 
work across the back, widen. 3 stars, widen, 11 stars. 

yth row — Same as 3d and 5th rows. 

8th roiv — Eleven stars, widen, 5 stars, widen, 12 
stars, widen, 12 stars, widen, 5 stars, widen, 11 
stars. In this row the widening in middle of back 
begins. 

9//1 row — Same as 3d, 5th. and 7th rows. 

10//; ro-<v — Eleven stars, widen. 6 stars, widen, 12 
stars, widen, 12 stars, widen. 6 stars, widen, 11 stars. 

11//1 roxv — Same as 7th row. These 11 rows fin- 
ish the yoke to tops of the sleeves. 

Begin at the right corner, work 11 stars, widen, 



turn, ch 3, and work a row of h d c, then a row of 
stars, then another of h d c until 5 short rows are 
worked, fasten off. Skip the h d c between the wi- 
denings on the shoulder, fasten wool and work stars 
across the back to first widening of left shoulder, 
turn, and make 5 rows same as for front. Work 
the left front same as the right. 

Begin again at corner, work h d c to the first 
armhole, ch 12, work across the back, ch 12. work 
to the end of row. Turn. 

The following 40 rows are of stars and h d c 
alternating, and in every alternate star row widen 
one star under each arm and one in middle of back. 
To keep the front edges even, widen a h d c at the 
end of each row. 

For the sleeve take up 25 stars around the arm- 
hole, fasten last to the first, turn for the h d c rows. 
Make the sleeve 12 rows long. With the pink work 
a row of h d c in eyes of the stars, to draw in the 
sleeve into cufif. Work two more rows with the 
pink, then finish the edge with a scallop of the 
white. Work the second sleeve same as the first. 

With the pink begin at the right corner at neck 
and work a row of double crochet with i ch be- 
tween across the neck. Work h d c down the front, 
across the bottom, and up the right front. Turn 
and work another row of h d c around the garment. 
Place close enough together to make the work lie 
flat. With the white yarn work a row of shells 
(6 d c fastened with single crochet) all around the 
garment and across the neck. 

Make a twisted cord of pink and white to run 
through the neck. Make a ball for each end. 

Baby's Nightingale 

Materials. — Four balls or skeins of white Pompadour wool. 2 
balls of color desired, ; yards of ribbon, bone crochet-hook. 

With the white wool work a chain of 56 stitches, 
turn and work a double crochet in 8th st from end 



of ch, ch 3, skip 2 sts of ch and work d c in 3d 
st, ch 3, skip 2 sts of ch and work d c in 3d st; 
continue in this way along ch, ending with a d c in 
1st st of ch. You will then have seventeen squares 





Baby's Nightingale 



Shape of Baby's Nightingale 

through which ribbon is to be run to tie around 
neck. (See illustration.) Chain 4, turn and work 
shell of 3 d c in ist square, ch 2 and work shell in 
2d square, ch 2 and work shell in 3d square, 
ch 2 and work shell in 4th square, ch 2 and work 
shell in 5th square, ch 2 and work another shell in 
5th square. Continue in this manner across, work- 
ing double shells in the 9th and 13th squares, so that 
work will form a square as shown in cut. After 
working shell in last square, ch i and work an 
extra d c in square. Chain of 4, turn and work 
shell between the extra d c and shell in preceding 
row. Continue across, working a shell in ch be- 
tween shells of preceding row. working double shells 
for widening at the same point as in previous row. 
Continue in this manner until you have fifteen rows 
of white. 

Border. — Start at one side of front with colored 
wool and work i row across, then i row of 
white, I row of color, l row white, ending with 
I row of color, being sure to work the double shells 
at same place to keep it square. 

Collar. — Work in same manner as the body, i 
row of white in the squares at neck, working double 
shells in same squares as for body, I row of color, 
I row white, I row color, i row white, ending with 
I row color. 

Edge Around Nightingale. — Start at one of the 
points with white wool and between double shells 
work a shell of 7 d c. fastening with s c in next 
square, shell of 7 d c in next square, continue in 
this manner around nightingale, having a shell at 
lach point. Finish the shells with picot edge of 
the colored wool. Tie bow of ribbon on ist and 
3d points at the double shells between 3d and 4th 
row from bottom. Tie first point together between 



37 



3d and 4th rows from bottom at the 8th shell on 
each side from point to form sleeve. Tie 3d ooint 
in same manner, the middle point being centre of 
back. Run ribbon through squares at neck and 
leave ends tp tie. 

Baby's Mittens 

Use white Saxony and a fine bone hook. The 
mittens are made thr(inc,Hiniit in single crochet bv 




Baby's Mitten 



taking the front part of the stitch and working 
around and around. 

Begin with chain of 46 closed to form a ring. 
Work two rows of s c, then a row of double crochet 
to run ribbon through, ^^'ork eight more rows of 
s c, which brings the work to base of the thumb. 
In the next row begin widening for the thumb by 
placing 2 stitches in one. In the following seven 
rows widen 2 sts, one each side of the thumb in 
each row. The 16 widened sts form the thumb. 
Fasten the last and first one together and crochet 
the thumb. To narrow off the thumli take 2 sts in 
one to narrow, leaving tlie thumb the desired 
length. 

Fasten on the wool for the hand, and work eight 
rows before the narrowing begins. To narrow off 
the tip, narrow a st on each side in every alternate 
row for eight rows, then narrow three or four in 
each row until the sts are all narrowed off. The 
worker can tell how often to narrow to shape the 
end right. 

Crochet two rows of shells across the top with a 
ch of two fastened into each st of the last row of 
shells. Run baby ribbon through the row of d c 



in the wrist. The mittens can be made larger by 
beginning with more stitches, and widening more 
for the thiunb. 

Baby's Mittens 

This requires about one skein Shetland floss. 

Chain 28, join. (See directions for bean stitch, 
page 44. ) 

jst round. — Work around in bean st. 

2d round. — With pink work around in bean st. 

jrf, 4th, ^th rounds. — Bean st with white. 

dtli round. — Double crochet in bean, * ch I, d c 
in next bean *, repeat. 

/th round. — A bean in each d c. 

Stii round. — Single crochet in each st except in 
centre of round, work 2 s c in a st, I s c in next, 2 
s c in next, turn. 

pth round. — Single crochet in s c, taking back 
loop of st, turn at end of each round. 

lOtJi round. — Single crochet in s c, widening as 
before, leaving 3 sts between widenings. 

nth round. — Single crochet in s c. 

I2tli round. — Like loth round, having 5 sts be- 
tween widenings. 

I^th round. — Single crochet in s c. 

ipli round. — Single crochet in s c at 1st widen- 
ing, ch 3. miss 9 sts between widenings for thumb. 

Work 8 rounds plain, working s c on 3 ch. 

2^d round. — Narrow every 9th st. Continue nar- 
rowing in same place in every round till closed. 

Join wool to thumb; work 7 rounds, then nar- 




Babv's Mitten 

row every 3d st, continue narrowing in same place 
in each round until closed. 

Aroimd wrist work loops, s c in st, ch 3, miss I, 
s c in next. Run ribbon through at wrists. 



Infant's Sack 

This sack is designed for a year-old child, and 
takes five skeins of white Saxony. If color is 
desired, as shown in the illustration, one skein 
will be required. The yoke is made in rib-stitch and 
with the long shoulder effect. Start at the neck 
with ch 51. 

ist row — Twelve s c in 12 ch, beginning on 2d 
ch. Increase in next ch by working 3 s c in i ch st ; 
now 24 s c for back, increase on next ch; now 12 
s c for front. 

2d row — Chain i, s c in each s c to the in- 
crease. Increase in first and last st of the increase 
and plain between. This makes the shoulder-piece 
between the increases. Single crochet to the next in- 
crease and do the same here. Finish off the row with 
s c. Repeat this row until the yoke is deep enough, 
which should be when there are 8 or 9 ribs done. 

For the long shoulders, work back and forth be- 
tween the increases over the shoulders, missing 
a st at the end each time until only a s c remains. 

The sleeves are worked on these extended points. 
Connect corners by ch 6 for under the arm, and 
work around with d c for first row. 

2d row. — Make 3 ch, now a st like this : Wool 
over the hook, bring up a loop around a d c and 
draw it out about three-quarters of an inch, repeat 
once more, then wool over the hook and draw 
through all the loops, now i ch ; this completes the 
stitch. Make this stitch into every other d c. 

3d row — Chain 3 and now the same st into each 
st of previous row, making them around 4 of the 
top loops. This is to raise them. Make the sleeve 
13 rows in length, then work on the cuff of 4 ribs. 
Edge this with a ruffle of 4 d c in every other s c, 
with a 3-ch picot between. 

Work the skirt of the sack the same as the 
sleeves, 15 row's in length. Edge with a Inr^e scal- 




Infant's Sack 
lop at the bottom made with 8 d c and a 3-ch picot 
between, the remainder edge vv'ith a ruffle same as 
the sleeve. 

Also work a ruffle at the edge of the yoke. 

If a color is used for yoke and cuffs, then all the 
ruffles and scallops are edged with 3 ch and si sts 
of it. 



Infant's Bootees 

This bootee is made of twofold Saxony and is 
widened on top like a slipper. The top of the foot, 
however, is not ribbed, as it is crocheted around 
and around, making the sole as well as the upper. 

Chain 13, around which make a row of s c, 
widening 2 s c at each end of chain and at point half 




way between on one side, taking up back part of st 
only on upper side, and both parts on sole. Continue 
thus widening for 5 rows, then widen in centre front 
only 2 s c every other row for 14 rows, making 19 
rows in all. Then work back and forth across sole, 
taking up both sts of 20 s c for 14 rows, then leav- 
ing oft" I s c at each end of next 4 rows, fasten wool 
and clip. Tie wool in at centre point in front, ch 18, 
on which make 16 s c, which brings you to front part 
already crocheted. Work on down to sole, catching 
into sole by si st. turn and work back to end. Con- 
tinue around the sole, working up and down, taking 
up back st and catching into sole, so that the rows 
of top will correspond to rows of sole; the model 
has 25 ribs or 50 rows. 

Run ribbon through at ankle and finish top with 
fancy edge. 

Child's Ball 

Take a large ball of yarn, or a very thin rubber 
one. Commence the cover of worsted by making 
a ch of 4 sts; join in a circle, and work in tr st, in- 
creasing at regular intervals until the work is large 
enough to cover one-half the ball; then work a few 
rows without increasing, draw the cover over the 
ball, letting the wrong side of the work be outside, 
and work the other half to correspond with the first 
half, decreasing at regular intervals and putting the 
hook in from the inside. A pattern of bright 
flowers worked with worsted round the centre adds 
greatly to the attractiveness of the ball to a child. 



Child's Cloak 



Materials.— Five skein 

ting silk, 5 yards No. i^A 
bon, 6 fancy pearl buttons 
medium-sized crochet-hook. 



yard of 



This cloak is for a child one year old, in short 
clothes. 

Begin at the neck with a chain of 112 stitches. 
Work a s c in 2d St from the hook, and in next 2 




Child's Cloak 

stitches, 3 s c in the next, s c in each of next 3 stitches 
of chain, * skip I ch, 3 s c. 3 s c in next. 3 s c and 
repeat from * to end of the chain, thus starting 14 
points for the yoke. Chain 2, turn, work s c in 
each s c of the first row, taking back of the stitch. 
Repeat until the yoke is 18 rows deep, placing 3 
sts in the point in every alternate row. 

The body is attached to the under side of the 
yoke, under the points. Instead of working the first 
row around the points, go straight across diagonally. 
Begin at the corner of the front, and work d c for 
the first row, placing them close enough so the work 
will not draw in. Chain 3, turn, work a star over 
every 2 d c to the middle of the space between the 
2d and 3d points of yoke, skip the 3d, 4th and 5th 
points for the sleeve, working the next star in the 
middle of the space between the 5th and 6th points, 
work stars across the back to the middle of the space 
between the 9th and loth points, skip loth. nth 
and 1 2th points for the other sleeve and work next 
star in middle of space between the 12th and 13th 
points, finish to the corner of yoke. Chain 3, turn, 
d c in eye of the last star, then d c back in the 2 st 
at the top of the last star, thus making a small stack 



stitcli. Repeat the stacks to the end of the row, 
placing one over each star. The next row is of 
stars, placing a star over each stack, and widen- 
ing a star under each arm and in middle of the back. 
To widen work a star between 2 stars without tak- 
ing any stitches of the row preceding. The body is 
all made of these 2 rows until it is the desired length, 
widening as in the preceding row in every alter- 
nate star row. Work a row of s c across the bot- 
tom, then break the wool and fasten to the upper 
corner of the left side of yoke and work a row of 
s c across the fronts and the bottom. 

Fasten the wool in the lower side of the armhole 
and work a row of 26 stars for the sleeve. Sleeves 
are made same as the body, working 10 rows, then 
join the edges. Begin the cuff by a s c in every alter- 
nate stitch of last row, work around for 4 rows, 
then a row of d c. with 2 ch between for the ribbon, 
and finish with a row of shells, each of 6 d c, joined 
by s c. 

Begin at the right corner for the collar, working 
a row of d c with 2 ch between for the ribbon. Turn, 
ch 3 and work a row cf stars by placing a star over 
each stitch beneath insiead of over every 2 stitches, 
thus making the fullness for rounding the collar. 
The next row is stacks, then a star row, then an- 
other stack row. Finish the collar and each side of 
the front with a row of shells, each of 6 d c joined 
by s c, and made close enough to round the cor- 
ners of the collar nicely. Edge the yoke around the 
points with shells, then finish the shells of yoke, 
collar, fronts, and sleeves with knitting silk, by 
chaining 3 and joining by s c in each st of shells. 

Run the narrow ribbon through the spaces made 
by the widenings in each point and leave a loop and 
end at each point. Use the wider ribbon for ties, 
running it through the spaces at the neck. 

Sew three buttons on each side to a tape on the 
underside, and make loops of the cord for fasten- 
ings. 

Child's Slippers 



ATERIALS. — One skein of pink (lerm 
pink Saxony for the border, and i yard of 
soles are No. 7. To make the work fir: 



a part of a skein of 

■ inch ribbon. The 

rather fine hook. 

Begin at the toe with a chain of 15 stitches. 
Turn and single crochet in each of the first 7 




Child's Slipper 



sts, 3 s c in ihe next st, 7 s c. For the second row 
work a s c in each s c of the first row. The whole 
slipper is worked in s c taking the back part of the 
stitch each time. The widening is in the middle 
s c of every alternate row, until there are 18 ribs 
for the front of the slipper. Work 18 sts for the 
side, and crochet back and forth until there are 18 
ribs on one side. Work the other side same as the 
first, and crochet the ends together at the back. 
For the border fasten the Saxony at the back of 
the slipper and work a row of treble crochet (t c). 
one in each rib around the top. At the lower edge 
of the t c row work a row by chaining 6 and fas- 
tening between the ribs. Work a row of shells, 
each of 4 d c in the t c row, then another row of 
shells between these shells, and at the outer edge 
ch 2 and fasten into each st of the last shell row. 
Double the toe and fasten to form a box. Sew the 
slipper to the sole and run the ribbon through the 
spaces at the top, tying in a bow in front. 



Hood for Child of Three Years 



Materials.— Three a 


ind 


ne-half skeins of Germantown zephyr of 


one color, and i 


skein 


L of a harmonizing shade for trimming. 


Note.— The rows of 


star 


stitch only are counted in making this 


hood. 







Front Piece. — Chain 8r, on which work 39 stars 
of 5 stitches. Chain 2, turn, taking up back st of 
stars, work row of single crochet, 2 sts to I star. 




Chain 3, turn, work an e.xtra star at each end of 
row. Work 5 rows of stars, alternating with s c, 
increasing I star at each end of each row of stars. 

Back. — Chain 49, on which work 23 stars, turn, 
crochet row of s c. Work 9 rows of stars, alternat- 
ing with s c. lo/A rozv — Skip I star at each end. 
Skip I star at each end of every 2 rows until you 
have 13 stars. Then skip i star at each end of next 
2 rows. Skip 2 stars at each end of next row. Then 
I until you have only 3 stars left, which should be 
22 rows. The other side is worked the same, start- 
ing with a row of s c on back side of ist row of 
stars, turning, crochet row of stars. 

To Put Together. — The points of front go to the 
face. Sew front and back together, joining one 
side of back from point at each end to front for 
five inches ; then gather fulness to remaining front. 
The other side of back gather to fit the back of 
head. Finish edge of hood with row of hairpin- 
work of color and make three rosettes for front 
and three for back by winding wool over fingers 
and tying in centre, mi.xing the shades of wool to 
suit. Sew rosettes in place. 



Made of Germantown i 
to 3 skeins of cream 



Napoleon Hat 

5-stitch 



stitch. It takes 
ontrasting color. 



Hood for Child of I'hree Years 



Chain 5. Skip the ch st next to the hook and 
draw the wool through the 2d, keeping both sts on 
the hook. Take up the 3d and 4th sts the same way, 
making 4 sts on the hook. These sts must be quite 
loose and the same length. Throv^r over the wool 
and take all 4 sts off together, and finish the star 
by ch I to hold it together. Now insert the hook in the 
first st of the star going down the side, it being a 
short stitch and called the eye of the star, draw the 
wool through, then through next st of the star, it 
being a long one, then through st where last st of 
previous star was made ; draw wool through all 4 
sts together, ch I. Repeat imtil you have 7 stars 
of 4 sts each, the 4th st always being put in the 
same place, which makes a circle. Fasten together 
by si st, ch 3. In succeeding rows this 4 st star is 
used to widen, all other stars having 5 sts. 

2d row. — Draw wool through 2d and 3d ch which 
inakes 3 loops on hook, draw wool through long st 
on top of star of preceding row, thenthrough short 
st or eye of the star, making 5 sts on the hook, take 
off all 5 together, ch I. Now make a 4 st star as 
described above, the 4th st being taken in eye of 
same star where 5th st of last star was taken, and 
so continue for balance of row, widening every other 
star. 

3^ rov.'. — Widen every 2 stars, and so on, increas- 
ing I star between widenings until you widen every 
7 stars, which will be 8 rows. Crochet 8 rows with- 
out widening, which finishes the crown. Then turn 
and crochet the brim so the right side of brim will be 



41 



to the wrong side of crown. Widen in first row 
every 6 stars, increasing i star between widenings 
for 7 rows, counting the first, when you will widen 
every 12 stars. The ne.xt 4 rows are made without 
widening, the first two being of white and blue 
stars alternating, and the next two rows of the 
white. 




Napoleo.v Hat 



To make the two rozvs of alternate blue and zi'hite 
stars. — Commence row with a white star ; insert the 
hook through the eye of the star and draw the blue 
wool through in a loop, leaving enough of the end 
on the wrong side so it won"t pull through, finish 
up the blue star, the top loop of which will be white, 
drop the blue wool at back of work and pick up 
the white wool, insert the needle in the eye of the 
blue star and draw the cream wool through and 
finish the star as before. Proceed as before, always 
dropping the wool just used behind and in such a 
way that it will not become tangled. Start in on 
the 2d row with a star of blue over the white, being 
careful to keep them in this manner, one color over 
the other. 

Finish with blue picot edge as follows: Chain 4 
s c into point where ch st started, ch 3. skip long st 
of the star and s c into eye of it. ch 3, s c into same 
stitch; ch 3, skip long st of the star, s c into eye. ch 3, 
s c into same st, and repeat. 

Line the wrong side of brim and crown with silk 
with interlining of canvas. Tack in shape with 
rosettes, which in the illustration are of staple 
work. Ties of ribbon or an elastic, as preferred, are 
used. 



Napoleon Cap 



Chain 5. Skip the ch st next to the hook and 
draw the wool through the 2d, keeping both sts on 
the hook. Take up the 3d and 4th sts the same way, 
making 4 sts on the hook. These sts must be quite 
loose and the same length. Throw over the wool and 
take all 4 sts ofT together, and finish the star by ch i 
to. hold it together. Now insert the hook in the 1st 
st of the star going down the side, it being a short st 
and called the eye of the star, draw the wool through, 
then through next st of the star, it being a long one, 
then through st where last st of previous star was 
made; draw wool through all 4 sts together, ch I. 
Repeat until you have 7 stars of 4 sts each, which 
makes a circle. Fasten together by si st, ch 3. In 
succeeding rows this 4 st star is used to widen, all 
other stars having 5 sts. 

2d row. — Draw wool through 2d and 3d ch which 
makes 3 loops on hook ; draw wool through long st 
on top of star of preceding row, then through short 
st or eye of star, making 5 sts on the hook, take off 
all five together, ch I. Now make a 4 st star as 
described above, the 4th st being taken in eye of 
same star where 5th st of last star was taken, and 
so continue for balance of row, widening every 
other star. 

3(/ row. — Widen every 2 stars, and so on. increas- 
ing I star between widenings until you widen every 
7 stars, which is 8 rows. Work 5 rows plain and 
clip wool. 

Divide crown in 4 parts, two opposite points being 
front and back, and the other two ear points. The 




Napoleon Cap 



last row, if widened correctly, should contain 56 
stars, which, divided into points, would be 14 stars 
between. Fourteen stars from where the wool was 
clipped tie in the wool, and work row of d c around 
crown, which commences the brim, and should be 
made wrong side out. The entire brim is made of 
d c. With the 2d row of which widen 2 d c at two 
opposite points, being front and back, for 2 rows, 
then widen 4 at same points until you have 9 rows. 
At ear points decrease 2 d c on the last 3 rows, and 
finish edge with picot edge or scallops. Either 
of these two edges are very satisfactory. Single 
crochet into top of first d c, ch 3, s c into top of same 
d c; s c into top of next d c, ch 3, s c into top of same 
do. Or s c into top of ist d c, ch 3, s c into top of 
same d c, ch 3, s c into same place, ch 3, s c into same 
place, making three loops of 3 ch sts each ; skip I d c 
and s c into next, skip I d c and repeat the scallop. 
After finishing the edge, turn the brim back over 
right side of crown and fasten points at top with 
rosette, also finishing at ear points with the same 
rosette. 

These directions are for an infant's cap. To 
enlarge : In making the crown widen for 9 rows in- 
stead of 8. widening every 8 stars in 9th row. In 
finishing the crown work 6 or more plain rows in- 
stead of 5. In making the brim divide as above and 
widen just the same, but there will be more d c in 
each division and two more rows must be worked 
before putting on picot edge. 



Child's Cap and Bib with Crochet 
Trimmings 

The cut shows a cap made of a piece of linen 
eighteen inches long and six inches vv'ide. The 




crochet trimming is all made and sewed on with the 
sewing-machine close to the edge of the rings, and 
around each stitching is placed a border of French 
knots with mercerized cotton. 

For the Front. — Sew twenty rings on the eigh- 
teen-inch edge ; place the rings half way over the 
edge and sew half way around the rings. Four and a 
half inches back place another row of twenty rings, 




Child's Cap 



Child's Bib 



and sew this on both sides. Between these two rows 
of trimming place the five crochet motifs at regu- 
lar intervals ; on the ends place four or five rings 
to fill up between the rows. 

Make all the French knots and do the cutting out 
before gathering the crown. Gather it around a 
motif and sew the linen edges together as far as the 
ring trimming. It is by far the nicest to gather 
it on the ruffler and get it just the right size to fit 
under the motif. It should have the rings half way 
over the edge of the gathers. 

A pretty way to trim this cap is to make a big 
bow of three-inch ribbon and place it in the nape of 
the neck, and run long ends through the rings for 
tie-strings. Ruffle narrow lace and sew it on the 
edge of the trimming all around the cap. Launder 
on the wrong side on very soft wool blanket. 

Det.\il of Crochet Motif used on C.\p. — Wind 
mercerized cotton ten times over the forefinger, slip 
off, work 6 d c in the ring; * wind another ring 
same size close to last st, fill this ring full of d c 
and join neatly with si st, six more d c on the first 
ring; repeat from * until you have six rings around 
the centre ring, the last ring join to the first and 
finish on the wrong side. The other rings are always 
joined to the preceding at points where they touch. 
It takes six of these motifs for the cap. The other 



rings are wound the same and filled half, another 
wound and filled half, and so on. then turned and 
remainder filled. 

The Serviceable Bib is cut from very heavy 
white vesting. Around the edge it is hemmed 
on the machine and around the neck it is turned 
under half an inch (it must be snipped nearly half 
an inch rather close together before it can be 
turned.) Over it run three times with the sewing- 
machine one-eighth of an inch apart. 

Sew on the ring trimming with the machine, 
close to the edge of the rings. Border the edge of 
trimming and around the neck with French knots 
made with mercerized cotton. Close with button 
and buttonhole or with tape. 

Detail of Ri.n'g Trimming. — Wind mercerized 
cotton ten times over forefinger and crochet needle, 
slip off, ch 3, work * 9 d c in the ring. For picot. 
ch 5 and fasten back in top of last d c. Now fill 
this tiny ring with 8 s c, work 9 more d c in ring ; 
this fills it half full. Wind another ring close to 
last St, and repeat from * until long enough, then 
work back and fill remainder of rings without mak- 
ing the picots. 

Baby's Carriage Afghan 



ITERIALS.— Four ounces white and 
a long double crochet-hook, a sh 
size. Fourtpen yards of narrov 
colored wool. In afghan stitch. 



:cs of colored Saxo 

chet-hook of the s; 

ribbon to match 



Make a ch of loi sts with both wools. With the 
white raise 100 loops: turn the work, and with the 
colored wool draw through 2 loops at a time till 
all have been worked off. Break off the wool and 
recommence at the beginnin.g. 

Work y2 rows in this manner, always working in 
the same direction. 

Darn in the loose ends -. , - .- - 

of wool with a needle. .,.'•,..,....!,■..-. 

This completes the centre. ,; ;;;;: r ;.'".'':: '. ; '. 

For the Bordcy.—\i(M- •.•;:;::'.': : ; - "_ ; - ■ 

ing the right side of ,;'.',-- '...'. , 

the work towards you, l ,'.','.',', l',\''.',\l",\' 

with the white wool I'.Vi'.W'.l'.WW^',', 

and short hook wurk '.'.'',',','.'.'.''.'..',"''. 

in double stitch thus: i ,'',,'-'.'.' '^' ''.'''''' ■ 

d c in the ist st ; * put ;'.".'--...'.;,;: 

the hook into the same MJ^ii^.'^^' •'."-:; 

Iraw the wool ^^-^ ', ^ I'.'.l '. ',', ', .'.','. 

put the hook '1 ". ''.''.',.' yy. ',,' t ' 

next St and ': S :'.'>:: :\z: ' ^ t 

wool through ; ' -' -'.-' •' ' / .' ; J ' ; .' C ; 
11 be 3 loops 

w o o 1 _" '.' . 



st and c 

through. 

into the 

draw the 

there wi 

on the 

over and 

wool through a 1 

loops at once. 

from *. \\'ork 

more rows of d 



hook : 



raw the 

all the 

Re|)eat 

three 



■:*-''tj'"il t- 



For the Scallof's. — Upon the wrong side make I 
d c in the ist st : * i ch, 5 long trebles, miss 2 sts, I 
d c into the 3d st and repeat from *. 

Run three rows of ribbon through the holes 
formed by the double stitches, and make four 
bunches of loops at the corners. 



Baby's Sack 

This pretty sack requires six skeins of white Shet- 
land floss. Yoke in Russian crochet, skirt in bean 
stitch. 

Chain 93. 

1st row. — Miss i, 
s c in next 2, 3 s c 



I s c in next, ch I, miss I, * 2 
c in next, 2 s c in next 2, miss 2 ; 
repeat from * to end of row, ending with ch I, miss 
I, I s c. Turn. 

2d row. — Chain I, i s c in back loop of st, ch I, * 
miss 2, s c in next, 2 in next, 3 in next, 2 in next, I 
in next: repeat from * ending with ch i, miss 2, I 
s c. Continue working until there are 12 rows, 
widening in each row by making 3 s c in centre of 
each point, and in every alternate row, 2 s c in st 
each side of point. 

Skirt. — ij;th row. — Work across in bean st. 

To }uakc bean stitch. — * Miss 2 sts. insert hook in 
next, draw wool through, wool over, draw another 
loop through same st, over, another loop through 
same st, over, and draw through all 6 loops, ch I. 
Repeat from *, turn. In making following rows, 
work last bean, at end of each row, in the two end 
sts of bean of previous row. 

14th row. — Bean st as in 13th row, except miss 
only I st around 2 points, ch 20. miss 2 points, beans 









^^.y^ 



r.\ 



-»V: 



^.ii^^^i^ 



c. 



Section of Baby's Carriage Afghan 
44 




Baby's Sack 

across 5 points ch 20, miss 2 points, beans across 2 
points, turn. 

l^th row. — When working beans across chains 
miss 2 sts between beans. 

Work 27 rows, always missing the ist space be- 
tween beans. Now with pink crochet a row oi beans 
down fronts and around bottom, working 3 beans in 
I at corners ; turn. 

With white, work 3 rows of bean st on fronts and 
bottom, always working 3 beans 
in one at corners. With white, 3 
c in st, ch 3, miss I, s c in next, 
all around. 

Around Neck. — ist roiv. — 
Single crochet in point, ch 4, s c 
in next point ; repeat around. 

3d roiv. — Two s c in 2 sts, 3 s c 
in next, * 4 s c in next 4 sts, 3 s c 
in next ; repeat. 

j(f rozv. — A s c in each st, 
working 3 s c in i at each point. 

4th row. — With pink work 
around in bean st, missing 2 sts 
between beans, though always 
working a bean in point. 

5th row. — With white work 
round in bean st and loops as 
around skirt. 

For Sleeve. — Work 25 rounds of bean st, turn- 
mg at end of each round and keeping sleeve closed. 

Treble crochet in bean, * ch i, tr c in next bean, * 
repeat; turn. Another round of bean st, then a 
round of pink, one round white, then loops as be- 
fore. Run ribbon around neck and wrists. 

Baby's Sack 



around the neck it is worked 
from the bottom of the yoke 
across the shoulders ; each 
shoulder being worked in a 
point. This is a simpler way 
of making a yoke than the old 
way, for in this there are no 
increases to make. 

Begin the yoke with 60 loose 
ch, which extend across the 
shoulder, 3 ch extra to turn. 
In the 4th ch make this new 
and original rib stitch: * wool 
over hook, draw up a loop 1-2 
inch long, wool over hook, 
draw up another loop same 
size, wool over hook, draw up 
another loop same size, wool 
over hook, draw up another loop same size, now wool 
over and draw through all but the last loop on the 
hook, wool over and draw through the two loops 
and pull up the wool tight, now 1 ch. This is one 
st and is repeated from * in every second ch, mak- 
ing 30 sts in the row. 

2d roiv — Three ch to turn. The sts are made the 
same as in first row, but are placed differently. 
In place of going in a ch you make the loops around 




-ERIALS 


-—Six 


skei 


ns 


f Sax( 


any > 


vhich 


is large 


; en 


ough 


for a 


child 


)lder. 


A bon 


:e c 


rochet-hook 


that 


IS the 


skirt 1! 


i m: 


ide n 


iiostly 


in Re 



In this sack the yoke extends below the arm- 
holes, and in place of being worked back and forth 



Baby's Sack 



the top of each st; this is done by inserting the 
hook on the right side of st and bringing it out on 
left side of st, and bring the loops through this 
place; this makes the heavy rib. Two rows make 
one rib and each row must have 30 sts. Repeat 
the 2d row until you have three full ribs for the 
shoulder. 

Now for back of neck work 14 sts, one rib and 
a half, add 32 ch loosely for right front, three extra 
to turn, work 30 sts again until there are 8 whole 
ribs on the back yoke. Break wool and fasten at the 
neck. 

To work the fronts, make 14 sts, 2 ribs for each 



^Uv 



front. For the under-arin, work 4 sts in length two 
rows or one rib at either the front or back yoke, 
and join it to make the armhole. To make the 
extension shoulders, begin 2 sts away from the 
short rib and work back and forth, missing two 
sts at tlie start and the end of each row until to a 
point. A little over two ribs brings it to the point. 

For the skirt, start with right side toward you, 
the side that counts whole ribs. Always begin row 
with 3 ch, 2 d c in each row, working the d c around 
the st to give a good strong body, 
in the centre of each rib make 
a Rose Treble Shell of 4 sts. * 
Work this stitch by winding iS 
times over hook, insert in rib, 
,bring wool through, wool over, 
and draw through 2 loops, wool 
over and draw through 2 loops, 
wool over and draw through the 
rest of the coil, wool over and 
draw through i loop and pull up 
wool tight to curl the coil. Re- 
peat the detail from * for each 
stitch in shell. This row has 20 
shells with 4 doubles between 
each shell. 

2d rou- — Chain 3, d c in each d 
c, and in shells work ch 2. a d c in centre of shell, 
ch 2, a d c in same place, ch 2, then d c in d c 
again. 

T,d roll' — Same as first, only there is a different 
foundation now. The d c are made in the d c and 
the shells in the centre of 2 chain in centre of shell. 

Alternate the 2d and 3d rows until there are 7 
shell rows; but in the 4th shell row use five Rose 
Treble, in the 3th the same, in the 6tli use 6, and 
in the 7th use 7. and in this last use s c over the 
d c in place of d c. 

The sleeves are made like the skirt. Begin on 
the under arm. manage to work around so you 
get six shells in the row and so you get a shell 
on the point of shoulder. Work the collar and 
front scallops to correspond. 



yoke is reached, then ch 15, and fasten across to 
back point of yoke for arm-hole. This completes 
yoke. 

Skirt. — i.f/ row — Chain 3, d c in second st of 
yoke, then d c across this into first st. This makes 
a cross. Work 11 crosses across each front, 8 
under arm, 20 across back. 

2d ro'd! — Repeat ist row, working crosses directly 
above those of last row. 

2,d row — Widen 3 crosses on front, 5 on back. 




Baby's Sack 

ins Saxony wool an'l i 
■spond; J yards ril.ljon 



spool knitting silk, 
I inch wide. 



Yoke. — Chain 88, ch i, turn, s c in each one of 
the 88 ch. 

2d rozv — Chain I, s c in first 21 sts, taking up 
back thread of st to form rib. Widen on 22d and 
25th sts. Have 40 sts across back. Also widen on 
22d and 25th sts from other side. Widen every 
row, having first 4, then 6, 8, etc., across shoulders. 
Be careful to keep 22 in fronts. Work 16 rows. 

17//1 roiv — Repeat l6th row until first point of 



Baby's Sack 

4//j roiv — Repeat 2d row. 

5//; rozv — Widen 4 on fronts, 6 on back, 

6th rozv — No widening. 

yth rozv — Widen 7 on fronts, 14 on back. 

8//( rozv — Widen 7 on fronts, 18 on back. 

Next 4 rows, no widening. Break wool. 

Fasten wool on right corner of neck, ch 3, d c in 
3d st of neck, ch l, long crochet in next 3d St., etc., 
for beading. When left side of neck is reached, 
work shells of 5 d c all around sack ; at corners of 
skirt, work shells of 10 d c. 

Sleeves. — Join at front point of yoke, work 
3 crosses, going into every st once, then 17, going 
into every st twice, then 6 like first 3, one cross 
above another under arm. 

Work 17 rows, counting the first, one cross 
above the other, then break wool. 

iSth rozv — On this row leave off 4 crosses on each 
side of seam. 

19//; rozv — On this row leave off 3 at each end of 
1 8th row. 

20//; rozv — On this row leave off 3 on each end 
of 19th row. 

21st rozv — Crosses all around. 

22d rozv — One cross above another for first 3, 
then one above two for every other one, except 
last 3 which are like first 3. 

For the beading work treble crochet between each 
space of 22d row. 

24.'/; rozv — Crosses all around, I for each tr of 
23d row. 



2$th row — Repeat 24th row. 

26th row — Shells of 5 d c all around. 

This completes the wool part. 

Now with silk, and beginning at neck, ch 4, s c 
between two sts of shell, ch 4, s c again, etc., around 
sack. Without clipping the silk, pass to first rib 
of yoke, s c in top of st. ch 2, s c in next. When 
the end is reached, turn, and edge next rib the same 
way. All the ribs can be edged without breaking 
the silk. Finish the shells on the sleeves the same 
as those around the sack. Run ribbon through 
heading on sleeves, and tie in bow at back. Also 
run ribbon through beading at neck. This little 
garment will fit a baby under one year old. For 
a child over one year, ch 100 at beginning, then 
have 25 sts on each front, and 46 on back, with 2 
on each shoulder. 

Baby's Sack 

Materials. — Three skeins of blue and i of pink two-fold Saxony, 
a fine bone hook, and 4 yards of No. ^ pink ribljon to match 
the pink Saxony. 

Begin at the neck with a chain of 115 sts. Turn, 
and in the 3d st from the hook work a s c and s c 
in each of next 2 ch, 3 s c in next st, * s c in next 7 
sts, 3 s c in next, and repeat from * 14 times, 330. 

For next row. — Chain 3, turn, s c in each of the 
first 4 s c, * 3 s c in next, 4 s c, skip I s c. 4 s c. and 
repeat from * across the row. Each succeeding row 
of the yoke is worked the same as the 2d row, the 
'3 s c for widening the point being put in the same 
place in each row. but omit skipping i s c between 
points. The yoke has 16 points and is 9 ridges or 18 
rows deep. 




Baby's Sack 



The body and sleeves of the sack are formed of 
rows of d c and stack stitch — one of d c and two 
of stack stitch, as seen in the illustration. Begin 
the body of the sack at the left corner of the yoke, 
under the points in the 3d ridge, and work a d c 
in each stitch, working straight across the point 
and not following the ridge, the points thus lap- 
ping over the body of the sack. For the row 
of stack stitch, turn, ch 3, skip 2 d c and work 
d c in each of the next 3 d c, then, without 
turning the hook, insert it in the first skipped d c, 
and work d c in each of the 2 d c that were 
skipped. This forms i stack. It will be seen that 
the last 2 d c cross over the first 3 d c. Repeat 
the stack 8 times, then turn, ch 3, and make a stack 
over a stack back to front edge. Work another 
row of d c and 2 rows of stacks, then break the 
wool. Skip 30 d c for the left sleeve, fasten wool 
and work stacks across the back (13 stacks), turn 
and make another stack row, then a row of d c, 
and two more stack rows, same as the front. Break 
wool, skip 30 d c for the right sleeve and work the 
right front same as the left front. Turn, ch 3, 
d c in each st of front, ch 4 under the arm, d c 
across the back, ch 4 under arm, d c across the left 
front. Alternate the 2 rows of stacks and i of d c 
until the sack has 3 more double rows of stacks 
and 2 of d c. 

Take up d c around the armhole for the sleeve 
and work same as for the body of the sack until 
4 rows of d c and 4 double rows of stacks are 
worked. Then work a row of d c with I ch between 
through which to run the ribbon. Join the pink wool 
and make a row of bean st. To work bean stitch 
proceed as follows : Take up a 
st on the hook, wool over and 
take another st in the same 
place, wool over and take an- 
other in the same place, thus 
making 6 sts on the hook, and 
draw each out about 1-2 inch 
long, take a st through the 6 
sts and fasten with a s c. This 
makes one bean. Work I bean 
in each of I ch. Join the blue 
and work the cut¥ of s c for 
8 rows, then a row of holes 
for the ribbon. Work the 
second sleeve same as the 
first. 

Join the wool to the upper 
corner of the left front and 
work a row of d c with 2 ch 
lietween all around the sack. 
Fasten the pink at the lower 
left corner and make a row 
of bean stitch across the 



47 



bottom, I bean in each 2 ch, with 2 ch between. 
With the bhie work a shell of (2 d c, I ch, 2 d c) 
in each of the 2 ch of pink row. Work another 
row same as this one, shell in a shell. For the 3d 
row of the bor- 
der, work shell 
of 8 d c in the 
first shell be- 
neath, j o i n 
with s c in the 
next shell, and 
repeat a c ro s s 
the row. Work 
a row of shells 
across the neck. 

Finish the 
edges of the 
sack, the sleeves 
and the points 
of the yoke with 
a row of picots 
worked of the 
pink. Across 
the bottom let 
the pink chains 
extend up be- 
tween the scal- 
lops, as seen in 
the illustration. 

The work 
must be loosely done to make this stitch elTective. 
Run the ribbon through the spaces, with bows on 
the sleeves, and ends to tie at the neck. 



end and catch in centre of 1st cluster with s c and 
ch 3 ; this will keep front edges even. !Make sack 
19 rows deep. 

Sleeves. — Commence one stitch from centre of 




Baby's Sack 



■fold Saxony, 3 



Materials. One skein of pink or blue 

skeins of white two-fold S.lxony. J'j yards ol narrow riDDon 
to matcll colored wool, lart of a spool of crochet silk to 
match colored wool. 

Chain 136. Work one row of single crochet on 
the ch, turn. 

2d nnv — Thirty-si.K s c, lakir.g up back of stitch 
to form rib, work 2 sts in 37th and 40th sts, work 
to within 40 sts of end, increase one in 40th st and 
37th st from end, turn. 

Always remember to ch i at entl of each row 
in order to keep edge straight. Work back and 
forth in s c, increasing one in each of the widening 
points to form shoulder. Work 9 ribs or 18 rows. 
With white wool work 11 clusters of 4 double 
crochet across front, ch 3 inches, work 18 clusters 
of 4 d c across back, ch 3 inches, w'ork 11 clusters 
of 4 d c across other front, turn, ch 1, catch into 
centre of ist cluster with s c, ch 3. \vork 3 d c in 
same st, work 4 d c in centre of each cluster across 
front, work 6 clusters of 4 d c on ch, work across 
back, work 6 clusters of 4 d c on ch, work across 
front, turn. Always remember to ch i at each 



Baby's .Sack 

shoulder and work 5 clusters of 4 d c across first 
half of shoulder, work 7 clusters of 4 d c under 
arm, work 5 clusters of 4 d c across other half of 
shoulder, turn, work across sleeve back and forth 
for 15 rows. 

With color, conunence at corner of right front, 
ch 4, work d c in 3d st, ch 2 and work d c in every 
3d St. This will form a row of holes for running 
the ribbon through. Work shell of 6 d c all around 
sack and sleeves. Finish with crochet silk to match 
colored wool, as follows: Chain 2 and with s c 
catch into every stitch of shell. To form revers, 
turn o\cr fronts of sack tlie width of two clusters 
and sew down the length of sack. Turn over two 
clusters at bottom of sleeves and slope to one at 
top. Lace sleeves together with narrow ribbon, 
and make small bows at top and bottom of sleeves. 

Directions for Laundering 

The most important point is that garments cro- 
clieted with wool should never be rubbed with soap, 
and that the water used is not so hot but that the 
hand can be held in it with comfort. Dip the gar- 
ment in the warm suds, squeeze gently with the 
hands and rinse carefully in clean, warm water. 
Roiling water, strong, dry soaps and powders shrink 
and ruin the fibre of the wool and spoil the color. 




PRISCILLA LIBRARY 

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Price, 15 cents 



Send all orders to The Priscilla Publishing Co., Boston, Mass. 



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The Most 
Helpful 
Magazine 
For Women 

There are many mag- 
azines devoted to 
stories, many others 
filled with miscellane- 
ous matter of more or 
less value and general 
interest; but there is 
just one magazine that 
specializes in the two 
subjects most closely 
associated with the 
average woman's daily 
Yiie—" Fancy. Work" 
and "Housekeeping" 
— with just enough 
clever, wholesome fic- 
tion added to give 
zest. That magazine is 

The Modern PrisciUa. 



WHAT "FANCY-WORK" MEANS 

When they see or hear the word " Fancy- Work," many people think 
only of Art Needlework. But as used by The Modern Priscilla. the 
expression "Fancy- Work" has a much broader meaning. It includes not 
only Embroidery, in all its manifold varieties, but it includes as well such 
feminine handicrafts and occupations as Knitting, Crochet, Lace-making, 
Weaving, Netting, Tatting, Basketry, Bead-work, Oil, Water-color, and 
China Painting, Stenciling, Art Brass Work, Art Leather Work, Pyrog- 
raphy, and the like. 

In Th E Modern Priscilla space is devoted to all these subjects from 
time to time, and no other magazine covers them half so thoroughly. 

WHAT PRISCILLA GIVES 

In connection with what is broadly termed " Fancy-Wen-k," The 
Modern Priscilla gives a three-fold service; 1. It supplies designs in 
infinite variety and of rare beauty (from 50 to 100 each month), with pat- 
terns for those who desire them. 2. It gives detailed and explicit in- 
struction, so clear and complete that any woman of average intelligence 
can gain proficiency in the work that most appeals to her. 3. It provides 
a wealth of suggestions for the practical useand application of the knowl- 
edge thus gained. 

HOW FASHIONS FIT IN 

This last service is especially noticeable in the Fashion Department, 
where in addition to sane and sensible adaptations of the latest modes, 
the use of the most appropriate embroidery is pictured and described in 
connection with each costume illustrated. 

HOW PRISCILLA SAVES ITS COST 

"Fancy-Work," it will now be seen, at least the "Fancy-Work " that 
The Modern Priscilla stands for, is no frivolous occupation for idle 
hours, but a decidedly useful occupation, that will supply at small cost 
many a dainty bit of wearing apparel or household decoration that could 
otherwise be had only at considerable expense, or perhaps could not be 
afforded at all. 

Many a subscriber has gratefully acknowledged this debt to Priscilla, 
more than a few asserting that a single copy has often suggested econ- 
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HOW A GOOD MAGAZINE WAS MADE BETTER 

Much as can truthfully be said about the "Fancy-Work" value of 
The Modern Priscilla, scarcely half the story has been told. 

In 1911 the publishers of The Modern Priscilla purchased the well 
known domestic science magazine called " Everyday Housekeeping " and 
in due season merged it with their older publication, making what has 
well been called a "Double Value Magazine." 

THE MISSION OF " EVERYDAY HOUSEKEEPING " 

" Everyday Housekeeping" \^ now ^ distinct iind separate section of 
The Modern Priscilla, and it is the aim of the editors to make it of the 
greatest possible helpfulness to Priscilla readers. 

Its recipes are economical, appetizing and nourishing, its special 
articles are authoritative and deal with practical subjects, its hints, helps 
and suggestions are gleaned from the experience of housekeepers the 
country over. 

THE PRICE SMALL — THE VALUE UNUSUAL 

When all the foregoing i» considered, even the most critical must ad- 
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(Canadian subscription price, $1.25) and that its steady growth in circu- 
lation from a few hundred copies 25 years ago to nearly 400,000 today is 
but the natural outcome of its policy of helpfulness. 

The news-stand price of The Modern Priscilija is 10 cents a copy. 
Orders for subscriptions should be sent to The Prist^lla Publishing Com» 
pony, 8!t Broad Street, Boston, Mass. 



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